Of all the classic Italian dishes worth trying, risotto alla Milanese really captures the imagination, and the good news is that it's easy to make even beyond the Milan it's named after.
That is, of course, as long as you can get your hands on saffron, the pricey spice that gives Milanese risotto its signature golden hue.
As chef Cesare Battisti explains to Stanley Tucci in the show "Searching for Italy," saffron found its way into this luxurious rice dish thanks to a bit of artistic inspiration. During the construction of Milan's Duomo, saffron was used to color the cathedral's stained glass windows.
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"The story goes that one day they played a prank on the workers, serving them rice the same yellow color as the windows they had made," Battisti told Tucci.
Why rice and not pasta? "Because Italy is split into two parts," Battisti explained. "In the south it's very warm and wheat grows there, but in the north it's rainy and there are marshes, so this is where rice grows."
Battisti showed Tucci how he prepares risotto alla Milanese at his restaurant Ratanà, but if you're not in the neighborhood, you can always try this recipe from Tucci's 2012 cookbook at home.
"My introduction to risotto was my mother's risotto Milanese," Tucci writes, "but I have to thank (chef) Gianni Scappin, who showed me the finer points of the art of making risotto, starting with buying the right rice. I look for brands labeled superfine. If that rice isn't available, I buy superfine Arborio or Vialone Nano, which you can find in most supermarkets."
Risotto Milanese
from Stanley Tucci's "The Tucci Cookbook."
Serves 6
Tucci says there are two important steps to keep in mind when making risotto:
"First, before adding any liquid, be sure to warm the rice thoroughly along with the onion, which is cooked until softened," he writes. This seals the grains of rice and keeps them from overcooking. Whether you like your risotto with a bit of bite or a softer texture, the choice is yours... Just don't overcook the risotto, or it will turn into a paste."
Ingredients
8 cups hot chicken broth, divided
1/2 teaspoon powdered saffron or 20 saffron threads
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup coarsely chopped onion (about 1 small onion)
2 cups Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan
Instructions
1. Measure out ½ cup of the hot broth, stir in the saffron, and set aside. Keep the remaining broth warm in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat.
2. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until it softens but doesn't brown, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat it in the oil and onion. Add the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until the wine evaporates, about 1 minute. Pour in the saffron broth and cook, letting the rice absorb it, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring after each addition and letting the rice absorb the broth before adding more. Cook until the rice is tender but al dente, 15 to 20 minutes. You may have broth left over; store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator for another use.
3. Remove from the heat, stir in the Parmesan and the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Serve immediately.
Serve it with...
"Traditionally, risotto alla Milanese is served with osso buco," Tucci says, "but it can also be served as a first course before chicken or other veal dishes."
And if you want a glass of wine with the dish, Tucci recommends a medium-bodied red.
Other Ideas
Stir in Some Mushrooms
Tucci suggests adding dried porcini mushrooms for another layer of flavor. Here's what to do:
1. Soak 1 cup of chopped dried porcini mushrooms in 1 cup of warm water.
2. After adding the saffron broth to the rice, strain the mushrooms through a fine-mesh sieve, saving the liquid.
3. Stir the mushrooms and strained liquid into the risotto, and let the rice absorb the liquid before moving on to the other steps of the recipe.
Leftovers? Make Cakes
Grab an egg, some olive oil, and a bit of breadcrumbs to turn your Milanese risotto into risotto cakes. Tucci recommends serving them for lunch "over a green salad, or for brunch with fried eggs." Here's what to do:
1. Add an egg to the risotto along with enough breadcrumbs to form a soft dough. Shape the risotto into cakes about 3 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the risotto cakes.
3. Cook until done and golden brown on both sides, about 8 minutes total. Serve immediately.
