A quiet, idyllic island in the Tyrrhenian Sea, Ischia offers a heart-tugging dose of Italian beauty, spirit and hospitality, with a generous splash of nostalgia for the Italy of years gone by.
Here, five-star hotels and lavish thermal springs sit side by side with scenes of Italian grandmothers hanging out the washing, religious street processions and children strapped to the backs of adults who go racing past on Vespas.
Its unspoiled beaches have long been a favorite with Italians, but international visitors were more likely to be drawn to the glossier shores of neighboring Capri or the Amalfi Coast.
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Yet Ischia still has something its more polished neighbors may be missing. You don't have to dig deep here to find the real Italy. Ischia is a little less staged, a little more candid and, ultimately, a little more authentic.
And now, at last, its moment in the spotlight has arrived.
The rise of what Italians call the "green island" went something like this. First, its famous tuff cliffs, narrow lanes and bougainvillea-draped landscapes became one of the backdrops for Elena Ferrante's Neapolitan novels, global bestsellers that were turned into a hit TV show.
Then came investment and the promise of bigger things, when the luxury Pellicano Hotels group took over the running of the five-star Mezzatorre hotel and spa on the island.
And finally, a new Ischia is More campaign, run by a community of local hotels and businesses eager to revive the island's fortunes after two hard years for tourism.
Michele Sambaldi, the group's president and Pellicano's managing director, says they want to position "Ischia as one of Italy's most prestigious destinations, attracting and holding on to the international jet set."
Here is what the island has to offer all year round.
Sunsets, scenery and thermal waters
The beauty of Ischia is that the landscape and traditions shift from town to town, so every time out you can enjoy something new.
Ischia Porto is the bustling, commercial heart, while neighboring Ischia Ponte has an old-world feel.
Casamicciola Terme sits on the northern coast and has the highest concentration of thermal springs, while Barano d'Ischia is best known for Maronti beach, the largest on the island.
Lacco Ameno, with its pretty marina, and Forio, with its picturesque old town, are arguably the two most charming towns.
The island has a few unmissable sights, including the medieval Aragonese Castle, which stands on its own volcanic rock formation and is reached by a footbridge.
This symbol of Ischia was once a royal residence and, during the Renaissance, a hub of activity for artists and writers.
After touring the rooms and gardens, you can relax at the Terrazzo cafe with a view over the Bay of Naples.
For even more spectacular scenery, the Church of Madonna del Soccorso in Forio is a stunning whitewashed church perched on a hilltop with incredible sunset views.
Private evening and even full-day boat tours can be arranged from most ports, and it's a wonderful way to take in the island's landscape while you dip into the crystal-clear waters.
For swimming and a proper taste of Italian summer, a day at a beach club is a must. Giardino Eden is a tranquil oasis where you can lunch on local dishes and then swim from beach platforms with striking views of the Aragonese Castle. And La Scannella beach club is everything you could hope for from an island beach complex, with three pools and beach access from sun loungers literally hanging over the edge of the cliff.
For breathtaking mountain and sea views, hikers will appreciate the trek up Mount Epomeo, a reminder of the island's volcanic past. And on the subject of history, Villa Arbusto, home to the Pithecusae Archaeological Museum, is worth a visit for its captivating collection of Roman and Greek artifacts, including amphorae, ceramics and jewelry.
Ischia is never short of gardens or thermal parks. The beautifully kept La Mortella botanical gardens were created by Susana Walton, wife of the English composer William Walton, and often host events and concerts. With exotic plants, bay views and a zen garden, this is a peaceful retreat at any time of year.
Also perfect for all seasons is a soak in the healing thermal springs, including the spa at the Nitrodi Nymphs park, said to be the oldest in the world. For a wealth of pools, spa treatments and dining options, spend a day at Negombo or the Gardens of Poseidon.
A gelato-in-hand stroll may be the best way to get to know the picturesque former fishing village of Sant'Angelo. Closed to cars, it's a kaleidoscope of flowers, vines and white houses and, crucially, home to one of the best granitas at the Enzo kiosk.
Vibrant cuisine inspired by land and sea
Being so close to Naples, it's easy to find Neapolitan treats all over Ischia, such as excellent pizza or a pastry shop serving sfogliatelle (flaky pastry filled with ricotta and candied orange peel) or the famous baba (a small, soft, sweet sponge, usually soaked in rum).
Many bars and beach clubs also serve the zingara ischitana, a toasted sandwich made with rustic bread, fior di latte cheese, prosciutto, tomatoes, salad and mayonnaise. Two guys are said to have created it in their pub in the 1970s, and it can be eaten all over the island to this day.
The piennolo is the most popular tomato here, grown in rich volcanic soil that makes it especially sweet and special. In fact, it's all but guaranteed that if you eat pasta al pomodoro in these parts, this is the variety that was used.
Since it's a Mediterranean island, you might assume the local specialty would be seafood. Instead, it's a rabbit stew (coniglio all'ischitana), braised in a terracotta pot with tomatoes and local spices. The best on the island is found at Il Focolare restaurant, high in the hills above Casamicciola Terme and Barano. They specialize in slow food, and their famous rabbit dish needs to be ordered by phone in advance.
Of course, Ischia also does seafood exceptionally well, and some of the most creative on the island can be found at Saturnino in Forio, where fine dining meets the fresh catch of the day. Also in Forio, foodies will appreciate the raw selection at Umberto a Mare, with matching panoramic sea views for lunch or dinner.
For those after a stylish evening aperitivo right on the beach, Seasons is the place to be, with expertly mixed creative cocktails served alongside gourmet canapes. Stay for dinner, where you can choose from a range of modern seafood tasting menus with matching wines.
For hearty, rustic seasonal cooking, head to La Vigna di Alberto in Barano. Locals flock here for unfussy food in a vineyard setting with a genuine family welcome. You'll need to call ahead to order the rabbit, but there are plenty of other dishes to choose from, from pasta to seafood and meat. Impress the locals at the end of the meal by asking for Piperna, a local amaro digestif infused with thyme and herbs.
Fine-dining connoisseurs will appreciate the two-Michelin-star restaurant Dani Maison, where multi-award-winning chef Nino Di Costanzo delights with his culinary skill and tasting dishes that are works of art. And at Indaco, right by the sea at the Regina Isabella hotel, Michelin-starred chef Pasquale Palamaro focuses on sustainable eating and wows guests with his innovative salumi di mare (cured seafood).
For those who want to combine food with a bit of a road adventure, local operator Personalized Italy offers a thrilling gastronomic tour of the island aboard a beloved Italian icon, the three-wheeled Ape Calessino.
An elegant escape
Ischia's luxury five-star hotels are seriously impressive. The choice runs from classic to chic and contemporary design. With natural thermal springs everywhere, most hotels have a day spa and natural pools.
To immerse yourself in nature and three hectares of immaculately kept gardens, the recently renovated Botania Relais and Spa is an adults-only hideaway with white-styled villas and rooms. It now boasts the region's only gourmet vegetarian restaurant, Mirto, with a true garden-to-table philosophy. The historic Regina Isabella resort and spa is ideal for families and groups and has a range of casual and fine-dining options, including the one-Michelin-star Indaco restaurant, plus its own private beach.
If an old-world atmosphere is more your thing, then the former aristocratic estate that houses the Excelsior Belvedere hotel and spa in the center of Ischia Porto won't disappoint.
Overlooking the sea in the bay of San Montano is the San Montano resort and spa. It has a breathtaking infinity pool, and some suites have their own infinity pools. Its lawn terrace is the perfect spot to watch the sun go down.
And then there is the Mezzatorre hotel and thermal spa, which radiates Italian beach elegance. If you could distill la dolce vita and 1950s Italy, it would look like the Pellicano Hotels group. Retro peach beach umbrellas and views of a private bay, all against the backdrop of a 16th-century watchtower, are sure to stop you in your tracks.
On Ischia, any number of things can captivate you: unforgettable food, a breathtaking sunset view, enchanting panoramas or the mesmerizing blue and green shades of the waters. This magnetic island knows how to cast a spell. And one thing is certain. This is not just a passing moment. Ischia is a true gem, and it's here to stay.
