Tucked between mountains and beaches, the state of Oaxaca in southern Mexico is a treasure trove of gorgeous scenery and outdoor adventure. Yet thanks to its capital and a handful of lesser-known villages, it is also a favorite destination for lovers of art and food.
The region is steeped in traditions that trace back to 16 Indigenous peoples, as well as to its Spanish colonial past. These very traditions draw nearly 650,000 tourists to the state each year, according to Adair Cesar of the state tourism board.
For anyone eager to explore a Mexico that serves up the best of many worlds and lies well off the usual hot spots, Oaxaca has something for everyone.
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Here is our guide to the best things to do across the different corners of Oaxaca state:
Oaxaca City
Start in Oaxaca City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a cultural hub. The city's colonial architecture, colorful buildings and cobblestone streets create picturesque views that make it unforgettable.
Art lovers will want to visit the Textile Museum of Oaxaca, where a small but striking collection of rugs, garments and other textiles showcases fine craftsmanship, along with the Centro Fotografico Alvarez Bravo photography museum.
You can then spend an entire day at the beautiful Santo Domingo temple, a 16th-century Baroque church and former monastery, where guides share the story of the city's and the church's Spanish colonial past, and next door at the 2.3-hectare Oaxaca Botanical Garden, where you can learn about the region's local plants.
Two popular events here are the Day of the Dead celebrations, when the city prepares meticulously with events, music and altars all over town from late October to early November, and the Guelaguetza, an annual July festival that showcases the cultures and dances of Indigenous peoples from across the state.
For those interested in food, visit Oaxaca's two markets: Mercado de la Merced for empanadas and Mercado 20 de Noviembre for carne asada. Among the many wonderful restaurants, La Teca serves traditional Oaxacan cuisine, while La Biznaga focuses on traditional dishes with a modern twist. Always try mole; sample all seven varieties while you are here, since it is the state's specialty.
Try cocktails at Cocina Bar Agavero during happy hour, and beer and wine at La Popular, then head to the Mezcaloteca for a mezcal tasting. The last one requires a reservation in advance, but it is absolutely worth it.
For a lovely bed and breakfast, try El Diablo y La Sandia, but travelers planning to stay for a few weeks or months can find short-term apartments at Al Sol Studios and Apartments.
From Oaxaca City, set out for Teotitlan del Valle, a sleepy town at the foot of the Sierra Norte mountains with a vibrant textile market and dozens of rug shops. The neighboring town of Tlacolula also has a not-to-be-missed Sunday market with dozens of stalls selling food, handmade goods and even live animals.
If nature appeals to you more, head to nearby Hierve el Agua, a beautiful natural spring where you can enjoy a swim and stunning views, or to Yagul, an archaeological site and former city of the Zapotec civilization.
Sierra Norte
The forested Sierra Norte mountains sit quietly about an hour and a half's drive from Oaxaca City.
The region is home to dozens of tiny villages, many of which run ecotourism sites nestled among canyons, waterfalls and panoramic lookout points. Visitors can stay in cabins and campgrounds.
The Ecoturixtlan site is especially cozy, with a fireplace and a cafeteria serving local dishes. In Cuajimoloyas, try the 3,280-foot zip line, which offers a view of the tiny mountain town. Then explore roughly 62 miles of hiking and biking trails. In Benito Juarez, visitors can also join cooking workshops with locals.
The Oaxaca Coast
It is known as a beautiful, relatively laid-back paradise. Puerto Escondido, the largest town on the Oaxaca coast, boasts several beaches and a lively nightlife. In November, surfing festivals draw plenty of visitors. Hotel Santa Fe and Sunset Point Resort are popular places to stay.
Playa Zicatela is known as one of the best surfing spots in Puerto Escondido, while Sabor a Mar offers seafood you simply have to try. The bar La Langosta Loca is also a local favorite.
If you are feeling adventurous, visit Zipolite, one of Mexico's few nude beaches, where a relaxed attitude is practically required, and stay at Hotel Nude or pitch camp in a hut or hammock at Lo Cosmico.
For those who prefer to soak up nature and biodiversity, Huatulco National Park lets you explore protected coral reefs. At the Mexican National Turtle Center, you can watch sea turtles released into the ocean from March through November. Puerto Angel and San Agustinillo are also quiet towns that are perfect for mingling with locals and enjoying the scenic views.
Julissa Trevino is a journalist from Texas whose work has appeared in BBC Future, Racked and Smithsonian magazine.
