Some crave the thrill of it. Some crave that first breath of fresh, clean air on a gleaming mountainside. Others long for a cold drink on a sun-drenched terrace, or a cozy dinner beside a crackling fire after a day out on the slopes.
Whatever it is that draws people to the mountains, winter breaks in Europe were largely put on hold for two years because of the pandemic.
But now skiers across the continent are thrilled at the prospect of what, for many, will be an "emotional" return to the slopes, as travel restrictions ease and resorts are given the green light to open.
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The mountains seem to be calling louder than ever.
"The desire to get back on the slopes has created a palpable sense of excitement," said Richard Lamb, co-founder and director of Kaluma Ski, a high-end tour operator with luxury properties in Courchevel, France, and St. Anton, Austria.
"The eagerness of guests getting ready for the ski season is clear from the calls we're getting. People are going to ski this season.
"There's so much positivity. We're way ahead on bookings compared with the pre-pandemic market."
Tears and Smiles
He added: "Clicking into your skis for the first time in what, for most people, will be two years is going to be an emotional moment.
"Whether we express it through tears or beaming smiles, it's going to be truly special."
The Covid-19 outbreak in Europe in February 2020 cut the winter season short, as ski resorts were seen as hotspots for spreading the virus, with people from all over the world mingling in confined spaces such as lifts, bars, restaurants and chalets.
After the initial lockdowns, many resorts had hoped to reopen by last Christmas, but the ongoing pandemic led the governments of France, Italy and Germany to postpone, and then ultimately order, that lifts stay closed for the entire season.
In Austria, some lifts remained open at limited capacity for locals only, with no accommodation or hospitality available at the resorts. Ski areas in Switzerland, Spain, Sweden, Slovenia and Bulgaria kept running, though travel restrictions limited access for most.
Now, with the vaccine rolled out widely, many borders reopened to some degree and lockdowns lifted, the ski season looks set to go ahead right across the continent.
Restrictions will vary from country to country and region to region, and will include mask-wearing in certain settings, some limits on lift capacity, social distancing measures and, crucially, for access to indoor spaces such as bars and restaurants, as well as some ski lifts, proof of a pan-European vaccination passport showing that a person is either double-vaccinated, has recovered from Covid, or has evidence of a recent negative test.
"It's Happening"
British vaccination certificates will be accepted in more than 40 countries covered by the scheme, including EU member states and other non-EU nations such as Switzerland and Norway. The rules for American travelers heading to Europe are in a constant state of flux: 27 countries are currently open to vaccinated visitors, though Bulgaria, Norway and Sweden are notably closed off entirely to arrivals from the US.
Lifts are already running at some high-altitude glacier resorts, such as Zermatt, Engelberg, Andermatt and Saas-Fee in Switzerland, Tignes and Les Deux Alpes in France, Cervinia in Italy, Hintertux and Solden in Austria, along with Ruka and Levi in Finland and Idre Fjall in Sweden.
"I think most resorts are already past the point of no return, they've organized too much. It's happening, and everyone is going to enjoy it. People are just craving it. It's going to be a big return to the Alps," added Lamb, who received reassurances at a recent travel industry event at the embassy in London.
"There are a few concerns about how everything will work, and there will be a handful of restrictions, but I don't think there will be very many.
"My kids have already climbed up into the attic to dig out their ski gloves and goggles. Skiing is always our best family holiday, and we're planning to make up for the season we lost."
A Return to "Normal"
Although some parts of Austria were preparing this week to bring in fresh lockdowns for the unvaccinated, Austrian lifts were planning to run at full capacity for anyone who could show their "3G" certificate, or Covid pass, when buying tickets, with visitors required to wear an FFP2 mask in gondolas, cable cars and shops.
Hotels, restaurants and some bars will also require a 3G pass, while nightspots and clubs will demand stricter proof of vaccination or a recent negative test.
In St. Anton, part of the vast Arlberg ski area in western Austria, the signs suggest the season will run "normally," according to Mario Matt, owner of the famous Krazy Kanguruh restaurant and apres-ski bar perched on the slopes above the town.
"Right now everything looks very good, everyone is ready for the season, we're ready, our staff are hired, and we're looking forward to a normal season," said Matt, a two-time world champion in alpine skiing and the 2014 Olympic slalom champion, who bought the bar in 2009 while still competing on the Alpine Ski World Cup.
"We need to see how the rules change, it's hard to say right now, but we're looking forward to a great season. People just want to get back to normal life, to be happy and enjoy their time."
Last winter, only a few lifts were running in St. Anton for locals, but the resort was closed and had the feel of a "ghost town."
"We had a tough time," said Matt, known as the "Eagle of Arlberg."
"Two years ago was the best season we ever had, and then we had to close down in March [2020]. Last winter was sad to see. The locals could use some of the lifts, but seeing a ski resort completely shut down, nobody could have imagined that happening.
"So seeing the Krazy Kanguruh the way it used to be, full of people, happy people, is going to be an amazing feeling."
The Austrian, who also trains Arabian horses, is looking forward to reviving the old-school atmosphere at the "KK," where revelers dance on the tables in their ski boots, if restrictions allow.
"It's fun, I love it when the atmosphere is lively, I'll get behind the bar and help out. I love it," he added.
The rules vary slightly across the continent and are subject to change. In France, for example, a "pass sanitaire" won't be needed to buy lift tickets, but is mandatory for indoor bars and restaurants, whereas Italy's "green pass" will be required to buy lift tickets along with access to indoor dining venues, both for anyone over 12.
In Italy, outdoor lifts will run at full capacity, while enclosed lifts will run at just 80%. In Switzerland, there is currently no Covid-pass rule on the ski slopes, but certification legislation for indoor spaces applies to anyone over 16.
"Fresh Air and Purity"
The key to a successful winter break will be keeping constant track of the current requirements at your chosen destinations.
"The rules are simple: once you head up, you can take off your masks and enjoy the fresh air, the breathtaking views and the stunning scenery," reads the official website of Les 3 Vallees, which takes in the resorts of Courchevel, Meribel and Val Thorens and claims the title of the largest ski area in the world, with more than 600 kilometers of groomed slopes.
That feeling as you reach the top of a lift, take in the landscape and anticipate your next descent is something many people missed during the pandemic, and it's the very heart of why so many return to the mountains year after year.
"It's that openness and the excitement of breathing in the fresh air and the purity of the Alps and just being in the mountains," said Britain's Mandy Hickson, who skis regularly with her husband and two sons.
"It's something even my teenagers have missed. We're all desperate to get out there.
"It's just that feeling of cold air rushing against your face and the sensation of being in the snow. I can't believe how much I've missed it."
Hickson, a former Tornado pilot, added: "Clicking into your skis when you haven't done it for a while is a strange feeling. You think you're going to be like Bambi, but really it comes back almost straight away.
"I love speed, so I love that rush of adrenaline and the pace, and that's what I'm really looking forward to. Pure skiing."
Even for locals like Matt, who has spent his whole life on skis, a return to normal life will be a much-needed tonic for the soul.
"After a snowfall, when we have blue skies in the morning, just riding up on the first lift and enjoying the powder is an amazing feeling, and anyone who has done it before knows what I mean," he said.
"Even for me, someone who does it every season, it's always something special."
