Once the go-to haunts of office workers looking to drown their sorrows after a long day at work, izakaya (casual Japanese pubs) have grown into the very essence of everyday Japanese dining.
From family-run chains to sleek, design-led versions, the best izakaya in Tokyo offer something for every taste and do a far better job of representing "real" Japanese food than pricey kaiseki restaurants.
Just about every Tokyoite has a favourite izakaya, and it's often a very local spot with its own crowd of devoted regulars. But when you're travelling around the city, picking one from the thousands out there can feel like a monumental task.
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Here's our pick of the best izakaya in Tokyo, where a warm welcome, excellent food and drinks are all but guaranteed, and none of it will drain your wallet:
Warayakiya
Grab a seat on Warayakiya's open-air terrace or inside by the counter to watch your food get seared over blazing straw. Tucked away in a quieter corner of Roppongi, Warayakiya is easy to spot thanks to the clusters of young, stylish professionals perched on the open-air wooden deck facing the street.
It's a great way to enjoy both delicious food and a bit of people-watching, but if it's your first time here, try to nab a seat where you can see the chefs at work in one of Tokyo's best izakaya.
Warayakiya specialises in a cooking method that hails from Kochi Prefecture on Shikoku. Instead of grilling meat and fish over charcoal, the cooks use straw, which burns at temperatures of up to 900°C.
Because of these high temperatures, the food only needs a few moments on the grill before it's perfectly and evenly seared. The star of the menu is the seared bonito, and it's not to be missed. The fish is so tender and full of the flavour soaked up during the searing process that it shines in its simplicity.
A full menu of grilled meat and vegetables is also on offer. Reservations are recommended on weekends.
Warayakiya, 6-8-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku.
Uoshin
You might end up sitting on a beer crate, but the food at Uoshin is well worth the discomfort. For fish and seafood lovers, the best izakaya in Tokyo just might be the spots run by the Uoshin group.
Several branches are scattered across the city in buzzing neighbourhoods such as Shibuya, Shimokitazawa and Ebisu, but the Nogizaka location is especially charming, with its colourful paper lanterns and outdoor seating, where clear vinyl curtains are used to keep the warmth in during winter.
Sitting on the corner of the Nogizaka intersection, literally a stone's throw from Tokyo Midtown and the business districts of Akasaka, Aoyama Itchome and Roppongi, Uoshin is a popular gathering spot for office workers before they head home in the evening.
And while the staff are usually happy to squeeze in a few latecomers on beer crates or wooden stools, larger groups are advised to book a table in advance.
Uoshin's menu mainly consists of various kinds of fish and seafood, prepared (or not prepared) in all sorts of ways. Grilled fish, sashimi, fish roe, shellfish of every kind... the speciality here is the bounty of the sea. Everything is well made, and the prices are reasonable.
Uoshin, 9-6-32 Akasaka, Minato-ku
Gonpachi
Rumoured to be the very place that inspired the restaurant scene in "Kill Bill", this spacious izakaya is a Tokyo institution.
Former Japanese Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi clearly considered it one of the best izakaya in Tokyo, since he hosted George W. Bush here during the president's official visit to Japan.
Despite its fame, Gonpachi remains a popular choice for visitors and locals alike. Stepping into the striking, Japanese-castle-like structure in Nishi-Azabu, guests are greeted by a team of friendly, cheerful staff.
The restaurant's open-plan layout features two levels of tables arranged around a central workspace, with plenty of counter seating in front of it too.
The whole place is done up in a warm, rustic style, with plenty of heavy wooden furniture.
Gonpachi's menu includes everything you'd expect from a traditional izakaya, with charcoal-grilled skewers and soba dishes taking centre stage. A handful of Western and fusion dishes, such as sirloin steak, spicy chicken wings and avocado and camembert tempura, round out the offering. The best tables fill up fast and there's often a wait, so booking is recommended.
Gonpachi, 1-13-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku
Andy's Shin Hinomoto
Old-school Japanese pub grub at its finest, its British owner notwithstanding.
Like Gonpachi, Andy's Shin Hinomoto is one of those places people say you simply have to visit while you're in Tokyo. It remains hugely popular with locals, whatever their nationality, despite being dangerously well-documented in just about every guidebook out there.
Shin Hinomoto is a noisy, rowdy izakaya crammed in under the railway tracks near Yurakucho Station. A family business for more than 60 years, its current owner is Briton Andy Lunt, who has been running the restaurant and buying fish at the Tsukiji market for the past quarter of a century.
His experience and persistence have paid off, making him arguably the most famous and respected non-Japanese izakaya owner in Tokyo.
Andy's speciality at one of the best izakaya in Tokyo is affordable grilled seafood and vegetables, from sea bream and John Dory to buttery scallops and tender prawns, huge asparagus and eringi mushrooms.
Since he buys his ingredients fresh at the market, not everything is available year-round, and the menu changes a little from time to time. Shin Hinomoto is the perfect spot for a laid-back get-together or a party, but reservations are a must for groups, especially during peak hours.
Shin Hinomoto, Yurakucho 2-4-4, Chiyoda-ku
Sakana Takewaka
While it's not unusual to choose an izakaya based on its food, it's also understandable that, for most people, the experience will involve alcohol. Yes, indeed.
This is where the Takewaka and Buri izakaya chains come into their own. With a wide selection of sake, these restaurants cater to newcomers and connoisseurs alike, which sets them apart as some of the best izakaya in Tokyo.
Buri has several locations around Tokyo, including a standing bar in Ebisu, but the branch of its sister restaurant Takewaka in Akasaka is more elegant and offers a better sake selection, with more than 30 varieties to choose from.
The popular tasting sets let guests compare different types of sake, a great way for beginners to get acquainted with Japan's favourite drink.
The service at Takewaka is friendly, and the food is traditional, quality izakaya cooking. Sit by the counter to watch the cooks at work, and if you're lucky, you might even get some free advice on sake pairings.
Takewaka, 3-13-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku
Ogikubo Ichibe
Eat and drink: the friendly staff at Ogikubo Ichibe will happily tell you all about their vast sake collection. Ogikubo Ichibe is an old-style izakaya where you settle onto a small cushion on the tatami, the walls are covered with calligraphic sake menus and nihonshu labels, and the staff feel like family, according to Etsuko Nakamura, author of Tokyofoodcast.com.
"That's exactly what makes this place so special and keeps the regulars coming back," she says.
Ogikubo Ichibe isn't the place you bring your new in-laws if you're trying to impress. But if you're after a simple, cosy izakaya, plus one of the biggest sake selections in the city, squeeze in, get comfortable and enjoy.
Ogikubo Ichibe, 3/F, Daiichi Ogawara Bldg, 1-13-3 Kamiogi, Suginami-ku
Tenmamichi Izakaya
The young and fun-loving will feel right at home at Tenmamichi Shimokitazawa.
Casual can be scruffy or it can be cosy, and this izakaya firmly belongs to the second camp. It's like an old sweater that has softened and loosened over time but become so snug you want to live in it forever.
A few minutes from Shimokitazawa Station and full of a young crowd out for a fun night, Tenmamichi offers a broad menu of good, affordable dishes.
"Don't be shy about asking the staff for their recommendations. They're not shy about sharing their personal favourites," says Nakamura. "I'd suggest starting with small dishes and a beer or nihonshu, then moving on to oden or kushi-age."
Tenmamichi Shimokitazawa, B1, City Hotel Lefua, 2-20-2 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku
Namikibashi Nakamura
In a quiet alley between Shibuya and Ebisu, a small light guides you to a set of massive wooden doors on the second floor. Inside are long wooden counters, an understated open kitchen and a polished concrete wall.
The effect creates an intimate, private setting, comfortable yet stylish, blending elements of modern and classic Japanese design. The food and drink menu carries on the theme of mixing and contrast, but does so in a way that intrigues and surprises rather than confuses.
"Every dish is carefully but simply presented on heavy ceramic ware," says Etsuko Nakamura, author of Tokyofoodcast.com. "Try the chef's recommendation: menchi-katsu, juicy, breaded and deep-fried beef and pork mince."
Options include thinly sliced kabu radish with ume plum sauce or chinmi when in season. The sashimi selection is superb, and the grilled fish or meat is perfectly seasoned with fresh, vibrant flavours.
"Namikibashi Nakamura is a step up from the usual izakaya; everyone leaves happy and satisfied," says Nakamura. "They offer smoke-free dining throughout the venue: even the yakitori grill here is somehow smokeless."
When you say "Kanpai!" at Namikibashi Nakamura, do it with champagne or beer. This is a place for bubbles. Follow it up with a bottle of sake served in an artful katakuchi.
Namikibashi Nakamura, 2/F-B, IPSE Shibuya, 3-13-5 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku
