"What kind of coffee do you have?"
"Well, black or with milk," comes the gruff reply.
This is the charmingly retro Bambi bar, where the decor and the surly service haven't changed in 50 years. Neither has coffee, a drink that has always played a central role in Budapest life.
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During the communist era, these shots of dark, bitter coffee in little glasses, served by scowling waitresses, were an essential way to start the day. While coffee's importance hasn't faded, a new wave of cafes, where competitive baristas know the difference between a ristretto and a cortado, is shaking up the scene.
The buzzword is "kezmuves," which roughly translates as handmade or artisan.
There are three key ingredients to the new artisan cafes: talented staff (with the certificates to prove it), stylish design, and carefully sourced ingredients.
The coffee is sometimes referred to locally as "third wave," meaning it is produced fairly and roasted on a smaller scale, giving it a lighter, less bitter flavor than Italian beans.
"With new wave coffee, you discover the true qualities of the beans, like the fruity, citrus notes of African beans or the chocolatey tones of Brazilian ones," says Peter Repka, manager of the artisan cafe Madal.
Despite all the interest in the new wave, both old and new cafes are competing for the right to keep Budapest caffeinated. Here are some of the best spots:
New Wave Coffee
Madal
The Indian philosopher Sri Chinmoy, whose childhood name was Madal, must have loved coffee.
Inspired by his calm, the friendly, cap-wearing baristas here take their craft seriously, explaining the different types of beans and roasts, and serving up beautifully presented cups.
They also bake their own sweet and savory croissants.
Madal, Hollan Erno utca 3
Espresso Embassy
This is one of the largest and best-designed artisan cafes, staffed by a range of award-winning baristas. The interior, with its brick vaults, was created by the firm that designed two stations on the city's new metro line.
The excellent choice of pastries includes croissants, cheesecakes, and brownies.
Espresso Embassy, Arany Janos utca 15
My Little Melbourne
A pioneer of the artisan coffee movement, this tiny cafe in the city center is a popular breakfast spot. Inspired by owners Dia and Peti's travels in Australia, it serves some of the best coffee and baked goods in Budapest.
My Little Melbourne, Madach Imre utca 3
Fekete
This place is even smaller than My Little Melbourne, but the connoisseurs speak of Fekete with great respect. With a couple of tables on the pavement out front, Fekete (which means "black" in Hungarian) is devoted entirely to coffee and almost nothing else.
Fekete, Muzeum korut 5
Tamp & Pull
This is the smaller of the T&P shops, but it's the most central, close to the Central Market Hall.
The name refers to two moves in a barista's work, tamping and pulling, which they do so well here that they run courses in the art of making coffee.
A board on the wall lists the beans available each day: where they were grown, who grew them, and at what altitude.
Tamp & Pull, Czuczor utca 3
Old Wave Coffee
Cafe Alibi
Breakfast is the best time to visit Cafe Alibi, on a quiet, fashionable square in the heart of Budapest. You'll often find local students here, enjoying great coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice.
Cafe Alibi has its own roasting machine, offering customers a choice of beans and coffee styles.
Cafe Alibi, Egyetem ter 2
Cirkusz
At this large cafe/restaurant in the heart of Budapest's buzzing Seventh District, the baristas roast their own beans. The coffee is excellent, and so is the food. After all those tiny cafes, you'll appreciate the space.
Cirkusz, Dob utca 25
Coffee Cat
There's no artisan coffee here, but the baristas at this lively breakfast spot know how to make an excellent brew.
There's also a great selection of baguettes with fillings like caponata, roasted pumpkin, or chicken salad, courtesy of the sandwich specialists at Delibaba Workshop.
Coffee Cat, O utca 44
Zokni
Zokni, or "Socks," isn't the most obvious name for a cafe, especially one located across from one of Budapest's main tourist attractions, the magnificent Great Synagogue.
It was the owner's nickname back in his days as a taxi driver. More importantly, the baristas make excellent coffee, and the pastries are wonderful.
Zokni, Dohany utca 1/b
Bambi
Finally, across the river to old Buda and the glorious Bambi.
There's no new wave coffee here. No trendy baristas either.
The retro atmosphere wasn't dreamed up in a design studio; it has always looked this way. This is one of the great survivors of the past.
Here you can enjoy a strong black coffee in an old-fashioned glass, sit on the red plastic chairs, and watch the old-timers play cards. Just don't ask for a cortado.
Bambi, Frankel Leo utca 2-4
Charles Hebbert is an editor and author for Rough Guides. He lived in Budapest for 10 years and has been visiting Hungary for more than 30 years.
