Before the pandemic, Thailand welcomed millions of foreign tourists every month, most of whom kicked off their holiday in the capital, Bangkok.
The city's largest international airport, Suvarnabhumi, buzzed with movement around the clock; travelers arrived from every corner of the globe at all hours, and long lines snaked through the cavernous arrivals hall as incoming passengers waited their turn at immigration counters.
Today, as the country works to balance its Covid-19 concerns with the need to restart its tourism economy, Suvarnabhumi remains eerily quiet.
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In a country where tourism accounts for roughly 20% of GDP, the absence of visitors has been devastating, forcing travel businesses across the nation, Bangkok included, to shut down.
Test & Go, Round Two
Thai officials are now hoping they can entice travelers to rediscover one of the world's best loved cities.
Bangkok was among the first Southeast Asian capitals to reopen back in November, its "Test & Go" program allowing fully vaccinated tourists from a long list of countries to enter the country.
Pre-approved passengers could fly in, take an RT-PCR test, and head to their government-approved hotel, where they waited for the results. If that test came back negative, they were free to explore the country as they pleased.
It was a start. Around 250,000 travelers flew into Thailand in December 2021, according to government figures, a drop in the bucket compared with the 3.95 million arrivals recorded in December 2019.
But then, in late December, officials suspended the "Test & Go" program over concerns about the spread of the Omicron variant.
Now they're trying again.
Officials announced that applications for the "Test & Go" program would be accepted starting February 1. There are a few small tweaks to the scheme, including a requirement to book a hotel for the fifth day of your stay in the Kingdom, where travelers will wait for the results of a second RT-PCR Covid-19 test.
Anyone who tests positive will be transferred to a hospital or a specially designated hotel, depending on the severity of their symptoms.
So what can those planning to visit Bangkok right now expect?
Covid-prevention measures are in full effect. Masks must be worn everywhere, both indoors and out, except when you're seated over food or drinks. Those who break the rules face fines. Temperature checks have become a routine part of life, even when walking into shops like 7-11.
Museums, galleries, historic sites, spas, cinemas, pools, tattoo studios and sports facilities are open, but must limit visitor numbers to 75% of normal capacity.
The Rolls-Royce of Street Food
Covid-related lockdowns and travel restrictions have left their mark on businesses in the parts of Bangkok traditionally popular with tourists, with many restaurants, spas, hotels and bars forced to close their doors for good.
But plenty of traveler favorites remain, and with so few tourists around, now may be the best time to try them.
Among them is the Michelin-starred Jay Fai, one of Bangkok's most popular street food restaurants.
Landing a table at this spot on Maha Chai Road was no easy feat before the pandemic, with diners showing up hours before opening to put their name on the waiting list.
But calling the cooking of 76-year-old owner and chef Supinya "Jay Fai" Junsuta "street food" is a bit like calling a Rolls-Royce just a car. Her signature dish is a crab omelet that runs 1,000 baht (about $30) per serving.
Most skeptics fall silent, though, the moment they cut into it and huge chunks of crab tumble out of their blanket of crispy, perfectly seasoned egg onto the plate. Other popular menu items not to be missed include her yellow crab curry and Thai classics such as tom yum soup.
These days it's far easier to get a table, with the restaurant posting monthly updates on its Instagram page, but you'll still have to wait a while. On a visit late one December morning, there were already crowds on the sidewalk, a mix of locals and tourists waiting for a table.
Assistants added charcoal to the fire or prepped ingredients, but as always the diminutive Jay Fai stood tall in her bright red lipstick, beanie and the trademark goggles she wears to shield her eyes from long hours in front of the intense heat.
Elsewhere, the city's culinary scene continues to evolve despite the pandemic, with a string of new and exciting restaurants taking Thai cuisine to the next level.
For those looking to expand their Thai culinary horizons with truly innovative fine dining, standout additions that have opened in recent months include Nusara, led by chef Thitid "Ton" Tassanakajohn, and Kavee, from chef Woratong "Te" Udomchaloterng.
Wat Pho Without the Crowds
Both Jay Fai and Nusara sit in Rattanakosin, Bangkok's historic Old City. This is home to some of the city's most popular attractions, including the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the Golden Mount.
Visitors to these revered sites will be able to enjoy a far less crowded experience than in the past, when tour buses and tuk-tuks used to line the streets outside.
On a recent trip to Wat Pho, one of Bangkok's oldest temple complexes, only a handful of travelers could be seen exploring its grounds.
Officially known as Wat Phra Chetuphon, Wat Pho is famous for its 46-meter Reclining Buddha and its school of traditional Thai massage.
Without the crowds, the complex's golden shrines, richly decorated pagodas and beautiful, peaceful galleries and corners are now ripe for quiet contemplation.
In Thailand, the main style of Buddhist meditation is mindfulness, known in ancient Pali, the sacred language of Theravada Buddhism, as satipatthana.
During a visit to Wat Pho, deputy abbot Phra Debvajracharya Tiab Malai spoke about the importance of meditation, and how it helps you stay calm in a city as chaotic as Bangkok.
"Every day you take a bath to clean your physical body," he said. "In the same way, you can clean your mind by practicing meditation. You must focus your mind only on the in-breath and the out-breath, and then your mind will be at peace."
For anyone who feels like they just can't get it right, don't worry. He says there's no such thing as bad meditation.
Luxurious Riverside Stays
As in almost everywhere else in the world, the pandemic has dealt a huge blow to Thailand's hotel industry.
In a November interview, Marisa Sukosol Nunbhakdi, president of the Thai Hotels Association, called the easing of entry restrictions a major milestone in the recovery process.
"Now there is hope not just for owners and operators, but for staff as well," she said, noting that "50% of hotels were closed, and 50% of staff left the industry" since the start of the pandemic.
While some destinations in Thailand were able to benefit from domestic tourism, Bangkok's hotels have had to get creative, offering special deals to attract a local clientele.
Travelers coming to the city now will notice that prices are far lower than they used to be, offering wonderful opportunities for a luxurious getaway.
Bangkok added several new properties while the world was closed off, including two gorgeous luxury hotels on the Chao Phraya River, Capella Bangkok and Four Seasons Bangkok, both part of a larger development that includes residences on the historic Charoen Krung Road.
"Beyond constant training during the lockdowns, we challenged ourselves to explore less conventional strategies to engage our wonderful local market," said Capella general manager John Blanco about how they stayed open during the pandemic.
"Whether in our unique rooms, restaurants or our spa, finding ways to package and deliver experiences despite the restrictions was a fun exercise. We're thrilled to see tourism gradually returning to Thailand, but equally happy that we had the chance to build relationships with our local market."
These new properties join an already impressive lineup of luxury hotels along the banks of the Chao Phraya, including the Peninsula, Mandarin Oriental, Anantara Riverside and The Siam, to name just a few.
For those who'd rather spend a lavish night on the river than beside it, the new Loy Pela Voyages offers a range of experiences aboard its two barges, which are available for charter only.
Bangkok's riverside has undergone a revival over the past decade, with the Talad Noi area on the edge of Chinatown becoming especially appealing. This historic district is defined by a delightful mix of galleries, cafes, street art and restaurants set inside renovated shophouses and even factories.
Moving deeper into Yaowarat (Chinatown), travelers will find Soi Nana, a much-loved street packed with popular bars and restaurants, including Ba Hao, Teens of Thailand, Tep Bar and the lovely Wallflowers Upstairs, tucked away in a rooftop garden.
As for new hotels in the area, Mustang Blu has become incredibly popular with locals looking for an Instagram-worthy escape. This flatiron-style building, once a bank, has been transformed into a 10-room bed and breakfast, its rustic rooms filled with antiques.
Another popular new attraction in Chinatown is the Ong Ang walking street, open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. It stretches 1.5 kilometers along both sides of the historic Khlong Ong Ang canal and offers a mix of street art, buskers, vendors and restaurants.
Bangkok's Nightlife Keeps Dozing
While many of the classic Bangkok experiences travelers crave are ready for their return, there's one area officials haven't fully brought back, and that's the party scene.
Entertainment venues such as nightclubs have been closed for much of the pandemic, opening for a few months only to be forced to shut down again in April 2021 amid Covid-19 outbreaks.
Today they remain closed, with no official reopening date set. But this being Bangkok, the party spirit isn't quite dead.
Certified restaurants are allowed to serve alcohol until 11 p.m., leaving a gray area that some bars serving food have managed to slip into.
A December 2021 visit to Khao San Road was proof that the party isn't over, with several venues on the famous Rattanakosin street packed with patrons enjoying drinks late into the night.
So while Bangkok still has a long road ahead to get back to where it once was, those willing to take the risk of traveling in these uncertain times will find a subdued, quieter version of the city they know and love.
