On the night of June 30, 1997, Hong Kong was preparing to enter a new chapter in its history.
Thousands of Chinese troops arrived in Hong Kong as the British lowered their flag. The occasion? A day later, the United Kingdom returned the territory to Chinese sovereignty after more than 150 years of British rule, in what is now known as the "handover."
Some Hong Kong citizens took to the streets in protest. Others emigrated out of fear. Many raised a toast to a fresh start.
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One of the biggest parties that night took place at Carnegie's, a Hong Kong nightspot that had been the setting for many a wild evening but that, sadly, closed its doors this June after 23 years in business.
Colonial-era restaurants and bars really are a rare breed these days, yet travelers can still catch the spirit of British Hong Kong at these seven time-tested favorites:
The Peninsula Lobby
Step into the lobby of The Peninsula hotel on any day of the week and you'll find queues snaking around the vast space, as people from all over the world line up for the famous afternoon tea.
It's a long-standing tradition at The Peninsula, a colonial hotel that opened in 1928 under British rule, making it the oldest luxury hotel in Hong Kong.
"Life seemed to have a different pace back then," says Florian Trento, executive chef at The Peninsula Hong Kong. "Nobody had mobile phones, and people always talked to one another. People had time to socialize over a meal, which was the center of social life."
Trento has worked at The Peninsula since 1987 and remembers working late into that rainy handover night, when the hotel was preparing a special menu to be enjoyed before the July 1 fireworks.
"There was a certain level of uncertainty that night, but overall the city was in a somber mood," he says. "Of course, everything has changed, we've all grown 20 years older! Life has always been good. It's less quiet now, and we have social media, so people interact less, but life in Hong Kong is good."
The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong; +852 2920 2888
The Globe
For newcomers to the city, The Globe is probably best loved for its incredible selection of craft beer. But for old-timers, the bar harks back to earlier days, when it was Central's favorite neighborhood haunt.
The British pub opened in 1995 on Hollywood Road, conveniently perched beside Hong Kong's famous Mid-Levels escalator. In its heyday, the bar drew the likes of Belgian actor Jean-Claude Van Damme, Australian tennis star Pat Cash and former England rugby player Jason Leonard.
After nearly 15 years in its original spot, the landlord doubled the rent. So The Globe moved to a new home, just off Hollywood Road, in 2009.
"We tried to bring as much of the old Globe with us as we could, the painted Globe map is still on the wall, and the old round tables and overly tall bar stools are still in place," explains Toby Cooper, director of The Globe.
Cooper even salvaged the old floorboards, turning them into booth tables. Today the place feels like a proper British gastropub, with wooden tables, dozens of taps and even a games lounge. The best time to visit? Happy hour, of course, which runs practically all day, from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
The Globe, G/F, Garley Building, 45-53 Graham Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2543 1941
Jimmy's Kitchen
If you're after old-school favorites like baked Alaska, bangers and mash and "Steak Diane," a juicy steak flambéed tableside, Jimmy's Kitchen is a Hong Kong institution.
The old-world restaurant opened in 1928, originally in the Wan Chai district, and later moved to Tsim Sha Tsui (now closed) in 1969. In 1975, Jimmy's opened another location on Wyndham Street, which is still going strong.
Today the historic restaurant still radiates nostalgic charm, from the wood paneling and velvet furnishings to the rich red carpets. The menu stays true to its original signature dishes, international cuisine and steaks cooked over a high-heat grill that leaves the outside pleasantly crisp.
Jimmy's Kitchen, G/F, South China Building, 1-3 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2526 5293
The Verandah
On the south side of Hong Kong Island, about 30 minutes from Central, The Verandah is an elegant dining spot set within the historic Repulse Bay complex.
In its heyday, the building served as a celebrated hotel (from 1920 to 1982) that once hosted guests such as Ernest Hemingway and Marlon Brando. The building was demolished in 1982 but quickly rebuilt to recreate its former grandeur.
Now a luxury residential complex, The Repulse has all the trappings of the 1920s, with black-and-white floor tiles, a grand staircase and antique wooden details. And visitors can still enjoy afternoon tea or refined European fare at The Verandah, which offers views of the South China Sea, a colonial-era atmosphere and live piano music.
Curious about the building's history? Mini historical displays are scattered throughout the lobby and restaurants.
The Verandah, The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd, Hong Kong; +852 2292 2888
The Peak Lookout
Perched atop Hong Kong's most famous mountain, The Peak Lookout has stood the test of time, having opened in 1947, originally known as the Peak Café. The restaurant occupies a restored Grade II historic building, once used as a resting place for sedan chair bearers.
Back then, the only way to reach the houses at the top of the mountain was to be carried like a king, and this was where the sedan chair bearers rested between treks. Over the years, the restaurant has earned a reputation for excellent oysters and barbecue, Indian cuisine and Hainanese chicken, a little bit of everything, really.
It became The Peak Lookout in 2001 after a renovation and a change of ownership. The courtyard is especially charming, with a garden setting and views over the south side of Hong Kong. Inside, meanwhile, lovely arched doorways and stone walls lend a rustic feel, while nostalgic black-and-white photographs on the walls walk you through its history.
The Peak Lookout, 121 Peak Rd, The Peak, Hong Kong; +852 2849 1000
La Taverna
Hong Kong's very first Italian restaurant is none other than La Taverna, which arrived on the scene in 1969.
Opened by two brothers from Milan, the restaurant was a social gathering place for the city's small Italian community, at the time homesick for handmade noodles and quality olive oil.
Although La Taverna once had around half a dozen locations, the only one left is in Tsim Sha Tsui, where the facade looks as if it had been transplanted straight from the cobbled streets of Milan. Dating back to 1973, the place is cozy and rustic, with thick wooden beams, antique furniture and vintage copper pots hanging from the ceiling.
And the menu? It's the kind of place where you can order hearty, indulgent Italian favorites like Milanese osso buco with risotto or a wood-fired pizza.
La Taverna, 36-38 Ashley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 2376 1945
Captain's Bar
The Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong is one of the city's most famous hotels, so it's no surprise that it's also home to an old-fashioned watering hole.
Captain's Bar has long drawn an affluent after-work crowd, ever since it opened 50 years ago.
The setting has been updated over the years, but the place keeps its gentleman's-club feel, think leather booths, red accents and wooden details. The best part of drinking here is Captain's Bar's signature beer. Brewed by local outfit Young Master Brewery, it's served in chilled silver tankards for a touch of nostalgic charm.
The bar is also known for its excellent Indian food, especially the chicken tikka, and live jazz on weekends.
Captain's Bar, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd Central, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2825 4006
The FCC
Housed in a 19th-century heritage building in the very heart of Hong Kong's Central district, The Foreign Correspondents' Club has been the watering hole of choice for journalists since it opened in 1949.
The club changed locations several times, finally settling at its current address, a handsome brick-and-stucco building that was once an "ice house" used to store dairy products before refrigerators became commonplace.
A walk through the main bar, which is usually packed on Friday nights, is like stepping back in time. Iconic magazine covers and moving wartime images adorn the walls, paying tribute to the work of its intrepid members. Although visitors need to know, or befriend, a member to get inside this popular spot, the neighboring Fringe Club shares some of the same historic charm.
Opened in 1983, the art-gallery-slash-café hosts plenty of exhibitions and theatrical performances throughout the year. Or, for a quieter evening, head up to the rooftop bar.
The Foreign Correspondents' Club, Hong Kong, 2 Lower Albert Rd, Central; +852 2521 1511
Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Rd, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2521 7251
