With its snow capped peaks and crisp winter air, this laid back mountain town in Patagonia leaves some travelers wondering whether they've landed in Switzerland rather than Argentina.
San Carlos de Bariloche, or simply "Bariloche" as the locals call it, is best known for its ever present views of glacial Lake Nahuel Huapi, which sits at the heart of the 7,050 square kilometer national park of the same name.
This Patagonian Lake District is also famous for its chocolate (the legendary fresh raspberries dipped in both white and dark house made chocolate from Rapanui), craft beer and traditional Argentine asado, making it a dream destination for foodies and nature lovers alike.
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Read on for the best things to do while you're there:
Things to Do
Every year from late July to mid September, Bariloche fills up with tourists from the southern hemisphere (mostly Brazilians) as well as travelers from the northern hemisphere chasing their "endless winter" and powder snow.
Twenty kilometers from downtown Bariloche lies the Cerro Catedral ski resort, with a vertical drop of 1,000 meters, nearly 1,500 acres of skiable terrain and 38 lifts.
For winter sports enthusiasts who'd rather not travel with heavy gear, there are several rental shops at the base of the mountain (La Base is one of the friendliest and most helpful), while Scandinavian in downtown Bariloche can kit you out with clothing for any outdoor adventure.
Catedral, also known as the South American Tahoe, has a thriving ski village with plenty of nightlife. Many skiers and snowboarders head straight to the casual Berlina brewery once the lifts close, to kick off the après ski with house made pizza and an enticing selection of craft beer.
For those who prefer to explore the mountains on foot rather than on skis, Bariloche has it all: from short walks to waterfalls to day hikes and grueling but rewarding multi day treks.
Most trails link up with the refugios (mountain shelters).
Frey is the most popular day trek thanks to its relative ease and stunning views, though that also means the trails can get crowded. The Lopez, Cerro Lindo and Laguna Negra refugios are also reachable on a day hike for beginner and intermediate hikers, and they're less busy.
Experienced trekkers looking to take in the region's finest views can brave the epic 50 kilometer hike from Pampa Linda to Colonia Suiza. It's best tackled in January to make sure the passes are open.
But it's not all about skiing here. Water sports lovers will be glad to learn they can explore the Manso River near Bariloche. Extremo Sur offers guided tours for both beginners and experienced paddlers.
The stretch of the Manso River closest to the Chilean border offers the most thrilling rapids and requires passengers to be at least 14 years old. The Manso Inferior is calmer, ideal for families with small children (ages 5 and up) or for inexperienced rafters. For those after a more unusual adventure, Extremo Sur also offers stand up rafting, its take on SUP for the rapids.
Kitesurfing has taken off as a booming sport on Lake Nahuel Huapi over the past decade. Steady, consistent winds, safe shores and kilometers of water backed by the snow capped Andes create the perfect playground.
The lake has plenty of great kitesurfing spots, including Bahia Serena, Playa Bonita and Bariloche Clasic, but Varadero beach is a local favorite. Dina Huapi just outside town also offers two launch sites: Dina Huapi West and Dina Huapi Rivermor. The water at both spots is a couple of degrees warmer than elsewhere, making it better suited to beginners. The Happy Riding surf school can arrange private lessons.
For travelers who want to experience the stunning nature of northern Patagonia in style, Constellations is a local travel agency that crafts unforgettable, one of a kind adventures. (They can set up a private, luxury Bedouin style tent for guests in the middle of some of the most breathtaking landscapes Argentina has to offer.)
They can help arrange nearly any adventure imaginable: yacht charters, regional tours in classic cars, exclusive picnics and heli skiing in one of the most pristine ski areas around. A family run company, they're passionate about sharing Patagonia and have years of experience working with discerning clients.
Cerro Catedral, Edificio Telesilla Séxtuple, 1st floor, Base Cerro Catedral, Bariloche, +54 294 4409000
Scandinavian, Mitre 219, Bariloche, +54 294 4433170
La Base, Cerro Catedral Ski Village, Bariloche, +54 294 4456111
Berlina, Cerro Catedral Ski Village, Bariloche, +54 294 4460022
Extremo Sur, Morales 765, Bariloche, +54 294 4427301
Happy Riding Surf School, Mitre 481- Oficina 1, Bariloche, +54 294 4532470
Constellations Travel, Jauretche 5030, Bariloche, info@constellations.travel
Where to Stay
All the incredible hiking in the nearby Andes draws travelers here from around the world. Budget minded tourists who want to stay in town will most likely end up on a street called Salta, packed with hostels.
While most of the budget options in town offer the same standard experience, Periko's hostel on Morales street is the best of the bunch.
The accommodations may be basic, but it's just 300 meters from the town center and four kilometers from the main long distance bus terminal. The genuinely welcoming hosts can help guests arrange transfers to Cerro Catedral for skiing or to the start of the popular Frey trail.
Families traveling with kids should take a look at Villa Huinid. Located just two kilometers from the town center, this hotel complex sits high on a hill, offering privileged lake views from every angle.
There are three options to choose from: the more affordable Pioneros complex, the slightly more upscale (but never pretentious) Bustillo complex, and standalone cabins with plenty of green space where kids can run around. There's a game room with foosball, heated pools and casual dining options, making it a place where guests can unwind with children of all ages.
And for travelers who want to give their kids an educational experience while the kids barely notice they're getting a dose of culture, the Chocolate Museum is right nearby.
One of the coziest and most romantic options in town is the Charming Luxury Lodge, ideal for a couples' getaway. The suites have bathrooms that feel more like a professional spa: each is fitted with a huge jacuzzi overlooking the lake, a dry sauna and a steam shower, complete with a selection of therapeutic essential oils to add to the steam.
There's an outdoor heated pool with a stunning lake view, and one of the town's best known restaurants, Stag, is right on site. The Butterfly restaurant is less than a 5 minute walk away.
Couples of any orientation will feel welcome at Charming, as it's a proudly LGBT friendly establishment. Argentina is one of the world's leading destinations for international gay tourism, since it was among the first countries to legalize same sex marriage, and Charming is one of the top spots for these honeymoons.
No mention of Bariloche would be complete without at least a nod to the Llao Llao hotel.
Opened in 1940, it recently underwent a renovation and is currently recognized as one of the leading hotels of the world, placing it in prestigious company. Staying at this hotel is a bit like visiting an upscale version of the resort from "Dirty Dancing": numerous group activities are held here every day, such as yoga, archery and stand up paddleboarding.
The hotel has an 18 hole golf course offering 360 degree views of Nahuel Huapi National Park. In fact, many day trippers visit the hotel just to get a sense of the resort's breathtaking views or to have lunch at one of the four on site restaurants.
Renowned chef Federico Gaston Dominguez Fontan oversees the cuisine. Whether it's perfectly grilled local lamb or afternoon tea in the Winter Garden, the food is definitely a highlight of any stay here.
For those who want to get out of town and immerse themselves deeper in nature, Peuma Hue is ideal. Set on more than 400 acres at the far end of Lake Gutierrez, about 30 minutes from Bariloche, this mountain estancia is the perfect retreat for families or couples.
Some of the best hiking and kayaking in the Lake District can be done right from this eco resort. Guests can stroll to waterfalls, explore ancient forests or wander the organic gardens brimming with fresh fruits and vegetables used in the restaurant. For maximum privacy, book one of the luxury cabins.
Perikos Hostel, Morales 555, Bariloche +54 294 4522326
Villa Huinid, Bustillo km 2.6, Bariloche, +54 294 4523600
Charming Luxury Lodge, Hua Huan 7549, Bariloche, +54 294 4462889
Llao Llao, Av. Ezequiel Bustillo Km. 25, Bariloche, +54 294 4448530
Peuma Hue Cabecera Sur del Lago Gutierrez, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, Bariloche +54 294 4501030
Where to Eat
For casual pub food, whether right in town or at the 13 kilometer mark along the shoreline, Blest is your spot.
This relaxed restaurant and brewery is mellow enough to bring the kids, yet social enough for a fun adult night out. While craft beer only recently took off in Argentina, Blest was well ahead of its time when it started brewing here 30 years ago.
The portions are generous (the lamb burger and the fajitas are worth noting). First time visitors should try the tasting flight to sample several beers, including their Pilsen, Cream Stout, Scotch Ale, cider and a delicious IPA. Blest also offers some special regional brews, such as Honey Queen and a lightly tart raspberry beer, both made with fresh local ingredients.
It's no secret that Argentina loves its grilled beef. For the best asado in Bariloche, Alto el Fuego is a charming and cozy family run restaurant set in a lovely old house near the Centro Civico.
The simple menu showcases the best of traditional Argentine cuisine, including ojo de bife, grilled provoleta and empanadas cooked to perfection.
Downstairs there's an impressive wine cellar stocking some little known wines, and one of the owners makes all the homemade desserts from scratch and serves them in cute glass jars.
Since this small restaurant has few tables, it's best to call ahead and reserve a spot, especially during the high season in summer or winter.
Located just a few kilometers from Bariloche in Dina Huapi, Almazen de Sabores offers classic Argentine food with a modern twist: think red curry steak and bruschetta with slow cooked Patagonian pork and vegetables. For those coming as a small group, the six course tasting menu lets everyone sample all the dishes on offer. It's a great spot for a laid back date or a nice evening with friends, and it won't break the bank.
Butterfly is arguably Bariloche's most famous gourmet restaurant, and any self respecting foodie should try this place when in town. The impeccably designed interior is both cozy and modern, with a fireplace and huge windows overlooking Lake Nahuel Huapi. There are only a few tables, which makes a reservation essential.
They offer a seven course tasting menu of intriguing dishes that includes a good mix of both local and international fare. (Chef Andres Lopez trained in Europe, and his dishes carry Spanish and French influences.)
Each dish is paired with the perfect Argentine wine, and the wines on offer are as high quality as the food. Although each portion is small, in the end guests won't leave hungry.
It's the perfect place for a romantic evening or to celebrate a final dinner in Bariloche.
(A note on prices: Argentina has one of the highest inflation rates in the world, and prices can vary widely. Keep this in mind, as there may be a discrepancy between the moment you book and the moment you visit.)
Blest, Neumeyer 34 and Bustillo Km. 13, +54 294 15 4891894
Alto el Fuego, 20 de Febrero 451, Bariloche, +54 294 4437015
Almazen de Sabores, 667 Los Radales, Dina Huapi, +54 294 4521109
Butterfly, Hua Huan 7831, Bustillo km. 7.9, Playa Bonita, +54 294 154534999
Cathy Brown (@cathybrown2100 on Instagram) is a writer specializing in adventure, family and luxury travel, raising three children in the Andes of Argentine Patagonia.
