Set right in the heart of Jalisco, the birthplace of tequila and mariachi, Guadalajara is not only Mexico's second-largest city but arguably its most authentically Mexican one, too. And yet, far too many travelers overlook this big city that carries the charm of a small town along with a youthful appeal.
What You Need to Know
Guadalajara is wonderfully walkable, which is a good thing, because the city's metro system is made up of just two lines with limited coverage, plus a third that has been under construction for years and doesn't seem anywhere near finished.
Reaching the land of the tapatios (as Guadalajara's residents are known) is a little easier now, with direct flights from cities on both the east and west coasts of the US, including Los Angeles and New York.
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So when is the best time to visit? September brings Mexican Independence Day on the 16th, along with the International Mariachi Festival in the weeks leading up to it, while October hosts a month-long, citywide celebration of art, food and culture at the Ferias de Octubre.
Meanwhile, November's International Book Fair (the second-largest book fair in the world) is bursting with events.
That said, the weather stays pleasant all year round in this city of eternal spring.
What to See
As in most Mexican cities, it makes sense to start exploring in the historic center. In Guadalajara, nearly all of the notable historic buildings radiate out from four lovely plazas, each with its own distinct appeal.
Take a seat on a wrought-iron bench beside the Government Palace on Plaza de Armas, then admire the facade of the famous twin-spired cathedral and its sunny yellow color scheme from Plaza Guadalajara.
Just off Plaza Liberacion stands the 19th-century Teatro Degollado, with its richly decorated mosaic depicting the nine muses and its sturdy Corinthian columns. Finally, learn about the influential figures of Jalisco (and watch the cats) beside the Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres.
Heading further east, you can't miss the 18th-century Hospicio Cabanas, a UNESCO-listed site that houses the striking frescoes of Jose Clemente Orozco. And while you're in the area, drop by Latin America's largest covered market, the Mercado San Juan de Dios.
Explore the multi-level complex of leather goods (ground floor), standard tourist souvenirs like keychains and magnets (everywhere), and knockoff shoes and clothing (second floor). Half the battle is not getting lost.
As for art, the ever-evolving Travesia Cuatro gallery showcases some wonderful contemporary rising stars from around the globe, while the Curro gallery in Zapopan specializes in displaying unconventional, interdisciplinary work. Either way, both spaces serve as a pleasant reminder that Mexico City isn't the country's only place to see interesting art.
If you feel like a break from the city, head northeast to Barranca de Huentitan or northwest to Bosque Los Colomos. Soak up the views or set off on a hike at the first, and feed the squirrels in the Japanese garden at the second.
What to Eat and Drink
Guadalajara is defined by everyday cooking rather than Michelin stars, though both Alcalde and La Docena Oyster Bar made Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants list in 2017.
Even so, the Santa Tere market, in the neighborhood of the same name, is the perfect place to get acquainted with Mexican classics, such as deep-fried quesadillas smothered in sauce.
If you're after an equally laid-back cafe breakfast, then Piggy Back, with its white-and-pastel color scheme, deserves a spot on your itinerary. Grab a table outside and order a huge plate of chilaquiles, washing it all down with a latte.
Alternatively, and especially if you're a coffee lover, it's worth checking out the many cafes dotting the cool, up-and-coming Americana district.
For something more specific to the region, and to cure a tequila hangover, the obvious choice is tortas ahogadas (literally "drowned sandwiches").
Although everyone claims theirs are the best in town, the key is that they pack a filling of deep-fried carnitas, fresh onion and radish into Guadalajara's signature crusty birote roll.
For something just as tapatio in flavor but a little less messy, be sure to try the quick service at Karne Garibaldi in Santa Tere.
Carne en su jugo ("meat in its own juices") may not sound very appetizing, but this combination of beef, bacon and broth, especially when topped with classic Mexican add-ons like lime, onion and cilantro, is a real winner.
In the evening, you can't go wrong strolling along the lively 15-block stretch of Avenida Chapultepec.
By day, teenagers skateboard here, and by night it truly comes alive, hosting impromptu dance lessons, market stalls and more affordable bars than you have time to visit.
But if you want something beyond commercial Mexican beer, head to Casa Trapiche, just two blocks from Chapu (as the locals call it), to sample tasting flights of craft ale, or descend into De La O to immerse yourself in tiki culture and inventive pulque-based cocktails.
Where to Stay
When it comes to spending the night in Guadalajara, you're spoiled for choice thanks to the many artsy boutique hotels that have popped up in recent years, as well as the grand classic hotels that seem to have been here forever.
For a luxurious stay in one of Guadalajara's coolest neighborhoods, Lafayette (which borders Avenida Chapultepec), book a room at Casa Fayette. This three-star design hotel, housed in a restored 1940s building whose era is reflected in some stylish decorative touches, is Guadalajara's sole representative in Grupo Habita's impressive portfolio.
Alternatively, just a few blocks away sits Villa Ganz, which bills itself as the city's first boutique hotel. The decor here, however, is far more traditional, with grand staircases, plush floral sofas and suites named after characters from Juan Rulfo.
Escaping the City
For an easy getaway, head 20 minutes' drive from Guadalajara to the historic center of Tlaquepaque.
Wander the wide pedestrian streets, decorated with colorful pennants and lined with restaurants, boutiques and art galleries, check out the tilework at Cantu, and pick up a tray of boiled vegetables coated in sour cream, cheese and chili at Jardin Hidalgo (it's better than it sounds).
Then head out in the evening to El Parian for a live mariachi show. Once there, order a cazuela (citrus fruit, juices and tequila). More like a soup bowl than a mug, you'll only need one.
And you can't visit Guadalajara without heading into the heart of tequila country. If you have money to spare, you can board the Jose Cuervo Express or do it yourself, taking a 90-minute bus ride from Guadalajara's Central Vieja bus station.
Spend some time exploring the courtyard of the Jose Cuervo factory before joining a distillery tour at the Orendain factory, where you'll get a detailed tour, free tastings and a ride on an unusual sightseeing bus.
Lauren is a writer specializing in travel, food and drink, especially in Mexico and Latin America. Follow her inner monologue on Twitter or read her blog, Northern Lauren.
