The beautiful Caribbean port city of Cartagena, Colombia, may not have been known for a red-hot dining scene, but that is changing fast.
Star chefs are blending local flavors into a Colombian take on world-class cuisine, served alongside perfectly crafted cocktails.
Throw in a mix of gorgeous colonial architecture, vivid colors, and a fiery nightlife, and Cartagena becomes a must-visit destination for eating, loving, and dancing until dawn.
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Carmen
Hidden behind a plain facade, Carmen wraps around a tree-filled courtyard strung with fairy lights that whisks guests into the middle of an enchanted jungle.
Husband-and-wife owners Rob Pevitts and Carmen Angel work with traditional Colombian ingredients like yuca, plantain, and seafood, but their cooking draws on Asian, French, and Caribbean influences.
Both graduates of Le Cordon Bleu culinary academy in San Francisco, the team's skill shines through in dishes like yuca croquettes with a molten foie gras and black truffle center, poached shrimp with black bisque and creamy cilantro rice, and crab cakes with plantain and wasabi mayonnaise.
The drinks are wonderfully inventive creations too, including one of the best rum punches in the city. Served in ceramic cups with plenty of attention to detail in the garnish, the punch gets a finishing flourish all its own.
Only have one night in Cartagena? Eat here.
Carmen, Calle 38 # 8-19, Calle del Santísimo, +57 5 664 5116
Alma
Set in an old colonial mansion that is now the Casa San Augustin hotel, Alma offers an elegant bar and candlelit dining beside the pool.
The wide-ranging menu from chef Heberto Eljach runs from classic Colombian ceviche to more familiar international plates like a New York strip steak and seafood spaghetti.
Favorites include the roasted lobster tail with lobster puree, as well as the fisherman's rice, a Colombian take on Spanish paella that is rich, intense, and creamy. Although Alma's menu leans toward seafood, there are meat and poultry options for landlubbers as well.
Alma, Calle de la Universidad, No. 36-44., +57 5 6810050
La Cevicheria
This spot shot to fame after Parts Unknown host Anthony Bourdain dropped by a few years ago, but it has not lost any of its quality since making a name for itself.
While ceviche is easy to find in Cartagena, La Cevicheria stands out with its variety of options and generous portions.
The unfussy restaurant, lined with blue and white tiles, is small but always full and buzzing. Wash your ceviche down with a classic Club Colombia beer or a glass of regional wine.
La Cevicheria does not take reservations, so it is best to arrive early to try to beat the crowds. Couples can grab two seats at the shared tables inside, but the place is used to serving groups.
Even if you end up in line, it is well worth the wait.
La Cevicheria, Calle Stuart, 714, +57 5 660 1492
Di Silvio Trattoria
Need a break from all the seafood? Step outside the walled city into Getsemani, the neighborhood where locals go to have a good time.
Next to Plaza de la Trinidad, this Italian gem sits inside an old soap factory. Only half of it has a roof, which only adds to the atmosphere, with fairy lights illuminating a live band.
The restaurant serves traditional Italian pasta dishes and boasts the thinnest, crispiest pizzas in town.
Di Silvio trattoria, Calle de la Sierpe con San Juan esquina, 9A-08, Getsemani, +57 5 660 2205
Maria Bonita Taqueria Cantina
Just around the corner from Di Silvio is Maria Bonita, a little slice of Mexico in the city.
This bar and restaurant offers a long list of tasty, one-bite tacos to choose from, including octopus, shrimp, chorizo, and pulled pork. Vegetarians will also find tacos made with eggplant, mushrooms, and cactus.
The interior is an eclectic mix of colorful art and graffiti that, paired with frozen margaritas poured straight from the tap, dials up the festive mood.
After a few hours spent here mingling with the locals, it is easy to wrap up the night next door at Demente, one of the most laid-back and trendy bars in the neighborhood.
Maria Bonita, Plaza de la Trinidad, Getsemani, Catrtagena, +57 311 4624318
Maria
To raise the stakes, there is Maria, a chic, modern take on traditional food from Colombian chef Alejandro Ramirez.
The interior is striking, with large tiger prints on each of the four walls and a chandelier made of pineapples in the center. The menu is a fusion of global cuisine, from ceviche with an Asian twist to a traditional take on British fish and chips.
The drinks list is just as inventive, with cocktails like the Cactus Margarita or the Mango Mojito, to name just a few. The vividly flavored drinks make a good aperitif.
Maria is the place to kick off the evening before heading a few doors down to Alquimico, an enchanting bar in a converted old shoe shop, to drink and dance the night away.
Maria, Calle del Colegio # 34-60 Local 2, Centro histórico, +57 (5) 660 53 80
