Bertha González Nieves feels completely at home in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
The co-founder and CEO of Casa Dragones, a premium tequila beloved by Oprah and celebrated Mexican chef Enrique Olvera, is seated in the shaded courtyard of La Casa Dragones. This 17th-century stone building once housed the stables of the Dragones, the San Miguel rebels who, more than two centuries ago, drew up the plan for Mexico's independence.
González Nieves and her business partner Bob Pittman were so inspired by the courage and independent spirit of the rebels that they not only named their company after the Dragones but also bought the stables, transforming them into a striking tequila tasting room and a four-bedroom home where guests can enjoy private tastings.
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With its elegant stone patio and open-air tasting room, there is no better place in this picturesque colonial city to spend a day learning about tequila and rebel history, glass of Casa Dragones Joven sipping tequila in hand.
Although the tequila is produced in Jalisco, González Nieves calls San Miguel the spiritual home of Casa Dragones. Like everyone who strolls the city's cobblestone streets, she was captivated by its warm ochre facades, breathtaking sunsets, and rich history and culture.
Set in Mexico's central highlands, San Miguel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the country's Pueblos Mágicos, or "magic towns," a designation given to remarkable places where history, culture, and natural beauty come together. Here that means a magnificent 16th-century cathedral, a historic mural by Mexican artist David Alfaro Siqueiros, and the kind of light that draws photographers and painters to San Miguel in droves.
If you ask González Nieves what she loves most about San Miguel, she will tell you it is the people. "I have had the chance to meet extraordinary people who are thought leaders, creative makers, curious minds," she says. "It is the people who live here who bring this city to life."
So, naturally, her personal guide to San Miguel begins with an afternoon of people-watching.
Watching the World Go By in El Jardín
At the heart of San Miguel sits El Jardín, a neatly manicured mini-park framed by the pink spires of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel. You will cross the plaza 10 times a day on your way to the restaurants, galleries, and shops on the surrounding streets, but one of González Nieves's favorite pastimes is to plop down on a bench and watch it all unfold.
"You can sit there for an hour with a coffee and just watch the people, or wander around and listen to the mariachis singing on the corner," she says. "Every weekend there is something to celebrate, a procession for one thing, a festival for another. There is never a dull moment."
During the Day of the Dead festival in the fall, El Jardín fills with elaborate ofrendas, or altars, decorated with orange marigolds in honor of the deceased. You can have your face painted in the plaza or buy a flower crown to join in the festivities.
Don't Miss the Market
No trip to San Miguel is complete without a visit to the mercado.
San Miguel has several markets, including the sprawling Tianguis de los Martes held on Tuesdays on the edge of town, but Mercado San Juan de Dios is just steps from El Jardín and, according to González Nieves, it is the best place to meet locals and get to know the character of San Miguel.
"To really feel the atmosphere and culture of the city, you need to go one morning and buy some food, seeds, or flowers," she says. "And be sure to talk to the people behind the counter, because each of them has a very unique story."
A New Wave of Mercado
At Doce 18 Concept House you will find a different kind of Mexican market.
Housed in a historic building near San Miguel's lively center, the market features fashion-forward designers selling glamorous serapes and locally made jewelry, along with a chocolate shop, a spice market, a flower shop, and a photography gallery.
Set beneath the 10-room L'Otel, the market is also home to Jacinto 1930, where chef Matteo Salas devotes his menu to Mexico's most treasured ingredient: corn. Be sure to try his wonderful take on esquites, a roasted corn stew made with plump kernels of maize you simply won't find north of the border.
Right behind Jacinto 1930 is the Casa Dragones tasting room, which González Nieves likes to call the smallest tequila bar in the world.
With just six seats, you can drop in to sample Casa Dragones Tequila Joven or one of the bar's signature cocktails made with its tequila blanco. The black tile that lines the intimate tasting room is made from obsidian stones found in the Casa Dragones agave fields.
One of the Most Exciting Food Scenes in Mexico
"You cannot come here and not try the extraordinary food," says González Nieves.
In recent years, a number of renowned chefs have chosen to make San Miguel their home. Among them are Matteo Salas, whose Aperi is arguably the most elegant tasting menu in town, and Donnie Masterton of The Restaurant, known for both his eclectic international menu and his weekly burger nights.
Mexico's most recognizable chef, Enrique Olvera, also has an outpost here called Moxi, inside the luxurious Hotel Matilda. There you can sample the chef's take on modern Mexican cuisine for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
The Best Sunset Views Are From the Rooftops
"Many artists and photographers come here for the light and the depth of field," says González Nieves, and the best light of the day is the hour before sunset, when the whole city is wrapped in a warm glow.
La Azotea near El Jardín was the first to start the rooftop trend in San Miguel, and it is still packed every night of the week with locals and travelers who come as much for the jicama tacos as for the epic views. The same owners opened a chic new rooftop cocktail spot called El Atrio, where you can unwind with a margarita as the sun goes down.
Both Quince and Luna Bar at the Rosewood offer 360˚ panoramic views with drinks and food that won't let you down.
Where to Stay
San Miguel has no shortage of luxurious hotels, starting with the stylish Hotel Matilda, where the walls are hung with contemporary art and you can sip a coffee poolside at Moxi, Enrique Olvera's restaurant inside the hotel.
At the Rosewood, beautiful courtyards and traditional Mexican craftsmanship radiate San Miguel's signature colonial charm, or there is L'Otel, a light-filled ten-room boutique hotel above Doce 18 Concept House near the city center.
No less boutique is Dos Casas, where two 18th-century residences have been transformed into 12 rooms and suites, including a rooftop suite with a private terrace, a hot tub, and stunning mountain views.
