Pick up one of Nancy Chandler's colorful maps of Thailand and you'll be struck by the depth of detail, the charming design, the quirky notes and the offbeat recommendations.
That's exactly what expats Isabelle Der Hagopian and Julie Torreton felt when they first came across the popular Bangkok map.
Inspired by the vivid artwork and the local know-how, the couple decided to build a similar guide for Hanoi.
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«When we started out, we would ride around the city on a motorbike and one of us would take notes,» says Der Hagopian, a Swiss doctor.
«We were complete amateurs, doing it for fun rather than for money. We worked with no budget at all and drew the first maps by hand.»
The first «Xin Chao Hanoi Map,» printed in 2010, caught the eye of Nancy Chandler's daughter Nima, who took the reins after Chandler's death in 2015.
«We were so thrilled (to hear from them),» Der Hagopian says. "Nancy Chandler's Bangkok map had been our inspiration, our dream map."
The two teams joined forces, and Der Hagopian and Torreton became the authors of the first «Nancy Chandler's Map of Hanoi» in 2013.
"We wanted to highlight the places you couldn't find anywhere else: our favorites, our personal tips," Der Hagopian says.
So which spots are her favorites?
Whether you're after secret spas or sunset strolls, rooftop bars or street food stalls, she has an answer.
What to do?
Long Bien Bridge
«I'd suggest heading to the Long Bien Bridge, which was inspired by Alexandre Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame), at sunset,» Der Hagopian says.
«Built in 1902, this historic bridge has a wonderful view over the rural Banana Island in the middle of the Red River. I usually ride across it on a motorbike, but you can walk it in about 45 minutes.»
«What really amazes me on the bridge is the light. It's not the kind of light you get in the other big cities of Southeast Asia. Maybe it's the humidity, but the light here is soft and truly beautiful.»
The bridge itself is fascinating because it feels like it isn't quite strong enough to hold you up. As if it might give way. It's a little frightening, but at the same time beautiful.»
Long Bien Bridge, Cau Long Bien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
Lenin Park
«This is a small square that's very popular at night with kids and families. They rent electric cars and enjoy the square like a carnival.»
«But I'd recommend going there early in the morning, when the older residents are keeping active, playing badminton or practicing tai chi in the park.»
«It's calm, peaceful and very quiet. It's lovely to simply turn up and soak in the atmosphere with that soft light: it's almost like a movie.»
"Just to go there and enjoy the atmosphere with that soft light, it's almost like a scene from a film."
Isabelle Der Hagopian
Huong Sen Medical Center
«When we were doing our research for the map, we spent so much time out on the road that we'd end up exhausted.»
«We often stopped by local spas to try them out. I really loved this one: it's genuinely good.
It's a traditional Vietnamese way of visiting a spa, and it takes about 2.5 hours.
You go inside, take a shower, then step into a bath in a separate wooden barrel, and after that you get a massage.
«They give you herbal tea to drink, and you lower your feet into a huge basin of ginger and herbs. Even during the massage they place a hot herbal compress on you… it's simply amazing.»
«You can ask for a private massage room if you like; otherwise you're in a large room with 15 beds (women and men separately), and it can get a little noisy.»
Huong Sen Medical Center, 68 An Duong, Yen Phu, Hanoi, Vietnam; +84 24 3927 1330
Cho Hom Market
«This multi-level market is my darling. For one thing, the building is beautiful: it's late modernist, built in the '90s.
«When you step inside, it feels like a city of its own, with life bustling everywhere. All the vendors live there and know one another, so the atmosphere is very friendly.»
«Upstairs there's a dedicated fabric market with colorful textiles and tailors selling their wares. Downstairs on the ground floor there's a wet market, fruit sellers everywhere, and plenty of cafes in the rooftop garden on the third floor.
"You can sit down and enjoy a coffee or a Vietnamese tea, try the local snacks downstairs in the middle of the fruit market, and just watch what's going on, watch the ladies selling fruit, watch this Hanoi life."
«What I love most about Hanoi… is wandering everywhere, sitting with a cup of the local ca phe sua da (iced coffee with condensed milk) and just watching people. There's so much life on the street, you can simply sit and it all unfolds around you.»
Cho Hom Market, 149 Pho Hue St, Ngo Thi Nham, Hanoi, Vietnam; +84 24 3825 6172
«When you walk in, it feels like a city of its own inside, life bustling everywhere.»
Isabelle Der Hagopian
Where to eat?
Phở Thìn
«Trying the street food is a really important part of understanding and getting to know Hanoi's culture. People here love food. They're passionate about it and very picky.
«They won't eat at restaurants unless they're really good. So if you see an empty street restaurant, don't go there.
«While you're in Hanoi you absolutely have to taste the national noodle soup: Phở, usually made with thin slices of beef, a slow-cooked beef broth and spices like cinnamon, anise and ginger.
«A week doesn't go by without me having at least one bowl of Phở. I'd point you to a local little spot called Phở Thìn.
«It's just one woman who has been making the very same soup for years. She has no fridge, so she goes to the market every day and the ingredients are always fresh.»
Phở Thin, 13 Pho Lo Duc, Quan Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam; +84 4 3821 2709
Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân
«Bánh cuốn is another street dish you have to try. It's a steamed rice-flour pancake filled with minced pork (or chicken) and mushrooms. This dish is unique to Hanoi.»
«Try it at Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân: the rolls here are light, and the mushroom flavor bursts in your mouth. They come served only with fried onions, so they have a lovely crispy texture.»
Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân, 81 Le Van Huu, Hanoi, Vietnam
«If you see an empty street food restaurant, don't go there.»
Isabelle Der Hagopian
This local Hanoi restaurant sits inside a listed heritage building, and when you come here it feels as if you're dining in the past.
«I can't single out one particular dish. I usually order half the menu and share it with friends, but I love the wild pork and the wonderful clams with lemongrass.
«It's tucked away on a tiny lane that cars can't even drive down. It's easy to find if you're looking for it, but otherwise you'd most likely never spot it.»
1946, 3 Lane Yen Thanh, 61 Cua Bac St, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Vietnam; +84 24 6296 1946
Quan Kem Caramen
«Quan Kem Caramen is a wonderful place to visit on summer evenings. A hundred or so people gather by the little cafe, either pulling up on motorbikes for takeaway or sitting on tiny stools and eating out on the street.»
«The best thing to try here is the caramel custard, which traces its roots to the French heritage of colonial-era Hanoi.
"It's similar to the French version, but there's a subtle hint of coffee to it, which is really delicious."
«They also have other desserts, like fresh mango with ice, coconut ice cream and coconut jelly. They're all worth a try.
Quan Kem Caramen, 29 Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Vietnam
Where to drink?
Manzi
«Manzi is an art cafe and bar set in a French colonial villa. It's run by young Vietnamese who are deeply into contemporary art and creative living in Hanoi.
They put on all kinds of exhibitions featuring Vietnamese artists, live concerts, talks and plenty of other events.»
«There are lots of young artists making work in the city, but you don't always know how to meet them. They're always at Manzi, though.»
«The place is always buzzing, and it's a great mix of local artists and creatives alongside foreigners who are curious about this side of Hanoi.»
Manzi, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Nguyen Trung Truc, Hanoi, Vietnam; +84 24 3716 3397
The Summit
«The Summit rooftop bar is on the 20th floor of the Pan Pacific Hanoi (formerly the Sofitel Plaza).»
«The hotel itself is a tower and not especially charming, but the view from this bar is simply stunning. You're above the Red River and the lakes, and you can fully grasp the geography of Hanoi from up high.»
«When you've just arrived, it's hard to get your bearings, to see where everything is and how the city is laid out. So a visit to this bar gives you a sense of how the city is put together and just how green it is.»
"Sure, your cocktail will be a bit pricey and the decor a little dated, it reminds me of the '90s, but I love it."
The Summit, Pan Pacific Hanoi, 20/F, 1 Thanh Nien Rd, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi, Vietnam; +84 24 3823 8888
Unicorn Pub
«For the best cocktails, I recommend the Unicorn Pub, where we've had plenty of great nights out.»
«The bar is a small, tiny, dark little place with a Vietnamese owner. It became well known in Hanoi thanks to its «phở» cocktail.»
«Honestly, it's really tasty. First you have to taste the soup, and then the cocktail. The drink has many of the same spices as the soup: cinnamon, lime and a touch of chili, but it's sweeter.»
Unicorn Pub, 2 Hang Than, Nguyen Trung Truc, Hanoi, Vietnam; +84 98 121 0752
Boutiques?
Ha Truong
Ha Truong is a well-known Vietnamese designer, and in the press she's called «the Vietnamese Coco Chanel.» I love what she does.»
«She changes her collections every year and is always trying to improve, studying in Paris and working to raise the quality, which is already stunning.»
«Of course, her pieces are cheaper than European ones, but they're all handmade and incredibly elegant.»
Ha Truong, 37 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam, +84 4 3715 4345
«Ha Truong is a well-known Vietnamese designer, she's called the Vietnamese Coco Chanel.»
Isabelle Der Hagopian
Chula Fashion
This is a fascinating shop. It's run by a Spanish couple: he's an architect and she's a designer. Together they've created this wonderful boutique, and it feels as though you're walking into an old pagoda. Then they craft original dresses, drawing inspiration from Vietnam.
«It's a colorful boutique with a family feel. You can order a coffee, and there's a courtyard, so you feel relaxed among the creative designs.»
«The walk to the shop is also lovely, because it's set right by West Lake, where there's a beautiful promenade and lots of little cafes.»
Chula Fashion, 43 Nhat Chieu, Nhat Tan, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam; +84 24 3710 1102
Atelier Pascal
«To find high-quality lacquer boxes and handmade goods, you can visit this small factory, just a little outside the city.»
«It's not that far, but most tourists don't know about the place. It's more of a factory with a modest shop beside it, but there's an area where you can order custom pieces.»
«Don't expect to find a truly stylish store here, but the people are welcoming, and there are always locals shopping to take advantage of the good prices.»
It's a fascinating experience, because you can also peek into the workshops and see how the pieces are made.
