Seoul's tourism industry may have long since passed the peak popularity of the trendy Gangnam district south of the Han River, but the truth has always been that the most interesting experiences from a visitor's point of view are concentrated in the northern part of the city.
Got some free time? Here's what's worth seeing when you travel to South Korea's capital.
Korea Furniture Museum
Yes, we know, it sounds like the kind of place even your grandparents would find dull, but hear out this insider secret.
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The Korea Furniture Museum holds more than 2,000 pieces of traditional furniture, along with 10 hanok (traditional Korean houses).
The museum itself is one of the most important and most beautiful architectural sites in Seoul, and one of the first places that global curators and designers visit when they come to the city.
Important: advance booking is required. You won't be let in without a reservation.
330-577 Seongbuk-dong, Seongbuk-gu; +82 2 745 0181; tours and restaurant reservations by appointment only; www.kofum.com
Bukchon Hanok Village
Bukchon is easily the most beautiful historic district in the city, where visitors wander the narrow lanes and peek behind gabled walls to see old hanok (traditional Korean houses) in all shapes and sizes.
A memorable stop: the open-air museum and a bittersweet cup of omija at one of the tea houses.
Bukchon Cultural Center, 105 Gyedong, Jongno-gu; +82 2 3707 8388
Gwanghwamun Station
All three of Seoul's main tourist attractions are just a few minutes' walk from the small Gwanghwamun subway station.
The open views of the palace with the massive mountains in the distance are some of the most striking in the city.
On the lower floors of the Finance Center you'll find the best lunch options in the financial district, plus the Kyobo Bookstore in the Kyobo Building, which stocks cute stationery and other design goods (accessories, gadgets, DIY projects, toys).
83 Doryeom-dong, Jongno-gu
Insadong
The traditional district of Insadong has changed dramatically. It recently shed its image as a tourist trap full of tacky souvenirs and became a cool arts destination with new galleries and modern tea houses.
Tasty teas and handmade crafts make it a lovely spot for a little break from the city.
Insadong, Jongno-gu; english.visitkorea.or.kr
Korean Galbi
When it comes to grilling, Koreans don't mess around. The knowledgeable staff will help you cook your galbi (juicy cuts of beef) to perfection.
Maple Tree is a budget-friendly, lively barbecue spot with branches in both Gangnam and Gangbuk. Here are a few more of our barbecue recommendations.
31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu; +82 2 730 7461; the restaurant has two more branches in Itaewon and Dogok-dong; www.mapletreehouse.co.kr
Glam
Fair warning: you'll be gasping for air.
Glam is more of a lounge than a club, one of the few bars in Seoul where you can stand around and mingle, and it's definitely one of the hottest nightspots right now.
You'll be fighting for air in the huge crowds; it's a party here every single night.
116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu; +82 2 792 6164
Octagon
When you're on top, you don't hide it.
Octagon is the hottest club in the city right now, having snatched the crown from the impossibly huge Ellui.
Though Korean clubs are known across the region for their "booking culture," don't expect it here (in fact, that whole trend is already fading away). Occasional laser shows and nonstop wild dancing are the main draws.
New Hilltop Hotel, Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeon-dong 152; +82 2 516 8847; cluboctagon.co.kr
Doosan Tower
Short for Doosan Tower, Doota has become the most stylish of the shopping malls, with non-brand boutiques in the Dongdaemun district (the Korean editions of Vogue, GQ and W are also based in this building).
Both men and women come here for fashionable, affordable clothing and accessories, especially at night, since the area stays open until the early morning.
18-12 Euljiro 6-ga, Jung-gu; www.doota.com
Vatos
We love bringing foreigners here, mostly to watch their skeptical looks ("Mexican food in Asia? Ugh!") turn into surprise and delight. There's a reason the wait can stretch to three hours on weekends.
Recommended: the kimchi carnitas fries and the shrimp tacos.
Itaewon-ro 15-gil 2/F; Yongsan-gu, +82 2 797 8226; vatoskorea.com
Bongeunsa
This temple in Gangnam is a surprisingly peaceful place in the heart of the city, offering striking views of a traditional town sitting right next to a modern skyline.
This year marks the tenth anniversary of Korea's temple-stay program, so temples across the country are developing unique programs aimed at travelers.
73 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu; +82 2 511 6070; www.bongeunsa.org
