The Shatsk Lakes are a cluster of more than thirty karst lakes in the northwest of Volyn, and the reason to come here is usually a single one: Svitiaz, the deepest natural lake in Ukraine, with a maximum depth of about 58 metres. The swimming season is short, from June to the end of August, so beds at the resorts get booked weeks ahead in July.

These lakes sit in the land between the Pripyat and the Western Bug rivers, a few kilometres from the borders with Poland and Belarus. The water is clear, the bottom is sandy, and the pine forest reaches almost to the shore. For this combination Volyn is called a sea without salt or waves.

Where exactly are the Shatsk Lakes?

Administratively this is the Kovel district of Volyn Oblast (a separate Shatsk district before the 2020 reform). The base point for a traveller is the town of Shatsk, only a few kilometres from the most popular lakes. The whole cluster belongs to Shatsk National Nature Park, founded on 28 December 1983; after the 1999 expansion its area is almost 49 thousand hectares, and 23 lakes of the group are protected here. This is Polesia: a plain of pine woods, without mountains or cliffs.

Shatsk Lakes: a holiday at Svitiaz — photo 1

How is Svitiaz different from the other lakes?

By two numbers. The first is a depth of up to 58.4 metres, the reason the Shatsk Lakes are known beyond Volyn at all: Svitiaz is deeper than any other natural lake in the country, and on its bottom there are karst funnels that drop almost vertically. The second is an area of about 26 square kilometres; by the size of its water surface Svitiaz is second in Ukraine only to Yalpuh in the south.

Water clarity here ranges from 3 to 5 metres, up to eight on calm days, and in the middle of the lake lies a real island of about 7 hectares. The shores are sandy with a gradual slope, so the shallows stretch far out, which is convenient with children despite the overall depth. But to think that Svitiaz is all the Shatsk Lakes have is a mistake: there are many lakes, and each has its own character.

LakeAreaMax. depthWho it suits
Svitiazabout 26 km²up to 58 mthe most developed infrastructure, an island, open space
Pulemetske16.3 km²about 19 mthose escaping the crowded resorts
Pisochne1.9 km²over 16 mthe cleanest water, safe with little ones
Liutsymer4.3 km²about 11 mcloser to Shatsk, a calmer pace

Pisochne for those who value clean water

If Svitiaz is about scale, then Pisochne is about water quality: the bottom is sandy across the whole lake, and the lake itself is considered the clearest in the complex. The depth reaches over 16 metres, but the entry is gentle, so among parents with preschoolers it has a reputation as one of the safest. The downside is obvious: there are fewer resorts and cafes here than at Svitiaz.

When to visit the Shatsk Lakes?

Swimming makes sense from June to the end of August. The peak is July and the first half of August: the warmest water and, at the same time, the highest prices and the biggest crowds. Those who dislike crowds aim for the second half of June or the end of August, when the resorts are already open but there is less noise.

PeriodWaterCrowds and pricesWho to recommend it to
Junewarming up, cool until mid-monthstill open, cheapercalm, fishing, walks
Julythe warmestpeak, book 1-2 weeks aheada classic beach holiday
Augustwarm, cooler in the evenings by month's endfirst half is busy, then a declinefamilies who need warm water
September and latertoo cold for swimmingquiet, cheapsilence, photos, mushrooms in the woods

How to get to the Shatsk Lakes?

The most important thing to note straight away: there is no railway through the Shatsk area. The nearest major station is Kovel, and from there it is about 85 kilometres by road to Shatsk. From there, two workable options.

  • By car. From Kovel take the road towards Liuboml (E373 / M07), then turn onto the T0302 towards Shatsk. From Lutsk it takes about two hours, from Lviv noticeably longer.
  • By public transport. By train to Kovel, and from there minibuses and buses to Shatsk run regularly, every 20-30 minutes in season. There are also direct services from Lviv, Lutsk and Rivne, often with one transfer.

A tip for those without a car: settle at the lake where you will spend most of your time, because getting between the lakes means walking through the forest or catching the infrequent local transport. At Svitiaz this is easiest.

Shatsk Lakes: a holiday at Svitiaz — photo 2

How much does a holiday cost and where to stay?

Accommodation here fits any budget: from a tent campsite by the water to private guesthouses and hotels in the village of Svitiaz. Prices swing a lot between weekdays and weekends, and above all between the July peak and the rest of the season, so it is best to check the exact figure before the trip on booking sites. The closer to Svitiaz and to the peak of the season, the more expensive. For food at a cafe on the waterfront you will pay noticeably more than in the shops of Shatsk itself. Boat, catamaran and bicycle rentals are charged by the hour and easy to find.

Who might not like the Shatsk Lakes

Honestly about the downsides. There is no sea here in the usual sense: no waves, no waterfront with entertainment until midnight, no water parks. The service is basic in places, the roads between villages are not perfect, at the peak the beaches of Svitiaz can get crowded, and mosquitoes near the forest in the evening are the norm. Anyone coming for the party scene and infrastructure on a par with Black Sea resorts will be disappointed. Anyone coming for calm water, forest and swimming without salt will get exactly that from the Shatsk Lakes.

A practical fork to finish. If you are coming for the first time and without a car, base yourself at Svitiaz: there is the most accommodation, the most rentals and the simplest logistics. If you want quiet and cleaner water and you have a car, look towards Pisochne or Pulemetske.