Like New Delhi, Mumbai is famous for its street food, known as "chaat", from the Hindi word chaatna, meaning "to lick". It is a fitting name, because these snacks really will have you licking your fingers.
And for anyone worried about the dreaded "Delhi belly" (or should we say "Mumbai malady"?), we have thrown in a few safe recommendations on where to try them.
Vada Pav
This homegrown take on a vegetarian burger is more than a match for anything McDonald's has to offer.
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Easy on the wallet and available everywhere, it is probably Mumbai's favourite street snack. Vada pav is a wonderful medley of flavours and textures. A fluffy, warm fried vada (potato fritter), crisp on the outside and soft and mashy inside, is tucked inside a pav (a thick bun) that has been split and slathered with fiery garlic and chilli chutney.
For an extra kick, it comes with half-fried green chillies on the side.
Where to try it: Aram Batata Vada, by the Capital Cinema building, opposite CST station.
Pav Bhaji
Mumbai's love affair with the pav continues with this thick red curry of mashed vegetables (do not worry, the red colour comes mostly from a generous amount of tomatoes rather than chilli).
The pav made its way to Mumbai from the neighbouring state of Goa, which in turn picked it up from the pao (bread) of the Portuguese, who colonised the region a few centuries ago. A hefty amount of oil goes both into toasting the bread and into the curry itself right before serving. Add a squeeze of lemon and some raw onion, and you have heaven on a plate.
Where to try it: Sardar's, 166-A Tardeo Road Junction, Tulsiwadi, near the Tardeo bus depot.
Chutney Sandwich
With this dish, Mumbai adds its own twist to the humble white-bread sandwich.
The secret ingredient is a generous layer of green chutney made from fresh coriander, green chilli and garlic. Fresh vegetables like tomato and cucumber, boiled potato and even crumbly cheese all find their way into this sandwich, toasted to golden perfection in a little handheld toaster.
We would suggest passing on the dubious tomato sauce the vendor offers as a topping.
Where to try it: Bachelorr's, Chowpatty Sea Face, opposite Birla Krida Kendra.
Bhel Puri
Simple to prepare, bhel puri is one of the few healthy options you will find on India's streets. Even boiled sprouts and green peas have made their way into later versions.
You can find this dish all across India, but it is the ingredients that give each version its own regional character. Half a dozen flavours, aromas and textures come together in one bowl.
In Mumbai, bhel puri is made with puffed rice, sev (a thin, crunchy fried snack made from chickpea flour), boiled potato, raw mango and onion, finished with fresh coriander and two or three chutneys (sweet, spicy and sour).
For anyone new to chaat, bhel puri is probably the safest dish to start with as you ease into the spices.
Where to try it: Swati Snacks, 248, Karai Estate, opposite Bhatia Hospital, Tardeo Road.
Pani Puri
This is another street dish with several regional versions, each laying claim to being the original and the best.
In Mumbai it is pani puri, in Kolkata it is phuchka, and in Delhi it is golgappa. Pani puri is a hollow fried ball made from refined flour. A small hole is made in it and filled with the topping of your choice, then dunked in spiced water (first savoury, then sweet).
In Mumbai the filling is boiled potato mixed with a good-quality masala powder. Pop the whole thing in your mouth and wait for the flavour to reach its peak.
Where to try it: Elco Market, 46 Hill Road, Bandra West.
Ragda Patties
Ragda patties is the quintessential Mumbai chaat, found at any self-respecting snack stall.
Potato patties are lightly fried on a huge flat griddle and served with a mild white-pea curry known as ragda. A garnish of sweet and spicy sauces, along with finely chopped onion and coriander, gives the dish its final burst of flavour.
Where to try it: Guru Kripa, Plot 40, Road 24, near SIES College, Sion.
Falooda
Once you have worked your way through all the dishes above, it is time for dessert. Falooda is served in a tall glass and made up of vermicelli noodles, dried fruit and nuts, rose syrup and sabja seeds (sweet basil seeds).
For an extra treat, go for falooda kulfi, which comes with a scoop of rich local ice cream known as kulfi.
