For many people, the words "a vacation in Mazatlan" conjure up the heyday of 1970s leisure, cocktails topped with tiny umbrellas in the Golden Zone, and hotels named "Paradise" that hosted the movie stars of the day.
Although Mazatlan spent many years perhaps dreaming of the old days of travel, before the Riviera Maya drew international tourism away from its shores, it always remained a favorite with domestic vacationers in Mexico.
Over the last few years, a huge push to improve infrastructure, modernize dated hotels and restore the colonial center of the city has been putting Mazatlan back on the map and making it an appealing choice for anyone who likes to pair culture with a beach getaway.
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Mazatlan, the second largest city in the state of Sinaloa and founded by the Spanish in 1531, has a rich and intriguing history.
A port city during an era of abundant mining, it drew immigrants from all over the world. The Germans who settled in the area founded the brewery that created the famous Mexican beer Pacifico, and they played a part in shaping the celebrated Sinaloan banda music, which has its roots in German polka rhythms.
Mazatlan's rise in the early 1900s under President Porfirio Diaz can be seen in the French-style architecture he favored in the picturesque and colorful historic center of town.
Island Hopping
While the beach in the hotel zone sits right in front of the hotels, it is lovely to explore a little farther out, and there are several quiet islands to choose from.
Isla de la Piedra (Stone Island) is a short water taxi ride from the mainland. Here you can ride a horse along the beach or take an ATV out to explore. You can also simply lie on the sand with a coconut water and freshly caught seafood before slipping into the calm sea.
Isla de Venados (Deer Island) is part of an ecological reserve and can be reached directly from the hotel zone in about 20 minutes by boat.
If you are feeling fancy, rent a private yacht to cruise around the islands, watch the sea lions and seabirds, and soak up the ocean breeze. Once on Isla de Venados, you can take a kayak out onto the calm water, go snorkeling in the bay or sway in a hammock in the shade.
Aries Ocean Adventures, Marina El Cid, Av Camarón Sábalo 1705, Zona Dorada, 82110 Mazatlán +526699163468
A Cultural Bike Ride
A bike ride along the waterfront and into Mazatlan's historic center is a wonderful way to get a feel for the city. Feel the wind in your hair on a guided tour with Blue Foot Tours. The guides are young and laid-back, so you will learn how the locals live and maybe even pick up a little Sinaloan slang along the way.
Cycling through the colorful streets of downtown Mazatlan is a delight, and exploring the market, sampling local coconut marshmallows and "ash tamales" makes for a tasty bonus. Ask to see the cliff divers, and you will watch local clavadistas leap from a 50-foot rock into the water far below.
Blue Foot Tours, Hotel Don Pelayo Avenida del Mar #111 Colonia Flamingos, 82149 Mazatlán +52 669 270 8212
More Than Just the Beach
The historic center is also great for strolling, photographing the colorful buildings or sitting on the peaceful Plazuela Machado with the locals. Culture lovers can catch a show at the Angela Peralta Theatre, which has a program that changes regularly.
One of the best dance schools in Mexico, La Escuela Profesional de Danza Mazatlán, is also based in Mazatlan, so dance enthusiasts are in for a treat.
Also near the historic center is a pool set into the sea. Once part of a swimming pool, bar and restaurant owned by the Chilean Antonio Oliveri, Carpa Olivera was destroyed by two hurricanes that battered the coast in 1957 and 1975.
What was left has been restored and is now a popular spot for a swim on Olas Altas beach. Keep an eye out for fish and octopuses that drift into the seawater pool.
Angela Peralta Theatre, Carnaval s/n, Centro, 82000 Mazatlán, +52669 982 4446
La Escuela Profesional de Danza Mazatlán, Carnaval 37 Centro 82000 Mazatlán, +526699814869
Culinary Delights
Mazatlan is all about seafood. For those who love a bit of heat, the local dish aguachile, a kind of shrimp ceviche, is fresh, citrusy and seriously spicy. It is the perfect thing to enjoy alongside an ice-cold Pacifico or even a local vanilla refresco, Tonicol.
Take your pick from any number of beachfront restaurants for the freshest seafood, or head to a local favorite, Los Arcos, just a block from the beach.
The historic center also offers several upscale restaurants for a special celebration during your vacation.
Casa 46 is housed in a former city museum and serves interesting, creative dishes to enjoy with a view of Plazuela Machado. It is especially lovely at night, when the square comes alive with craft stalls and strolling families.
For anyone who loves old haciendas brought back to life, El Presidio offers perhaps the most stunning dinner setting you can find. The open central courtyard is full of ancient trees with roots trailing down the walls. The food is high quality with generous portions. Try to leave room for one of their delicious desserts.
Los Arcos, Av Camarón Sábalo 1019, Zona Costera, 82110 Mazatlán, +526699140999
Casa 46, Constitución 79, Centro, 82000 Mazatlán, +526691360545
El Presidio, Blvd. Niños Héroes 1511, Centro, 82000 Mazatlán, +52 669 910 2615
Where to Stay
If you want beachfront lodging, and who can blame you, your best bet is The Local in Mazatlan's Zona Dorada.
A multi-level infinity pool that looks out over the ocean makes this modern option a standout.
Also keep an eye on The Inn at Mazatlán, an old favorite that will have fully modernized rooms by the end of 2019.
For those who prefer to be closer to the historic center, Casa Lucila is a boutique hotel in a former jazz club once frequented by celebrities such as Robert Mitchum and Ernest Hemingway. Six of the eight rooms have ocean views, so you can get the best of both worlds.
The Local, Av. Camaron Sabalo 905, Zona Costera, 82110 Ciudad Mazatlán, +526691959494
The Inn at Mazatlán, Av Camarón Sábalo 6291, Fracc. Zona Dorada, El Cid, Mazatlán, 18668265454
Casa Lucila, Avenida Olas Altas 16, Centro, 82000 Mazatlán, +52 669 982 1100
When to Go
The best time to visit is from November through April, when the weather is glorious and not too humid.
A string of different cultural events from November to January culminates in the Mazatlan Carnival in February, which draws big crowds and brings the port city to life with street parties and parades.
Susanna Rigg is a freelance writer and Mexico specialist based in Mexico City.
