In Havana, a once sleepy restaurant and nightlife scene is slowly coming alive as Cuba gears up for its moment.
Here are five ways to get to know the city:
Sit and Sip
Havana's Malecon seawall is the heart of the city and a perfect place to get your first taste of Cuba.
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People come here to exercise, to kiss, or simply to gaze for hours at the beautiful blue sea along this 5-mile stretch of wall.
By day, little kids love to leap off the wall into the bay, and by night young people set up camp with bottles of rum.
The stretch of the Malecon in front of the Hotel Nacional is especially popular right now, because the government recently installed WiFi routers in the area, a first for Cuba.
Move to the Music
Ask any habanero for the best place to dance and you will start an argument.
Some people love big, loud venues. Others prefer spots known less for the music than for the people-watching.
Another great place for music and dancing is Sabado de la Rumba. It is a wonderful block party with live music, cold beer, and plenty of dancing, held every Saturday afternoon.
Dancing rumba in Cuba means holding nothing back, and often the people with the best moves are the elderly.
La Flauta Magica is a fairly new club with a South Beach vibe and a stunning ocean view, where the finest Cuban musicians perform.
Unlike many other clubs, the music here starts early (at least by Cuban standards), around 10 in the evening.
Local Flavors
Cuban slang for "private restaurant," paladares are the place to eat in Cuba. Often you dine in people's homes, though paladares are becoming quite upscale.
The food at paladares is more inventive and uses fresher ingredients than what you find in state-run restaurants.
More and more, you can spot freshly caught tuna, octopus, and even organically grown vegetables on the menu.
Salmorejo soup, salads, and cerdo meloso are among the many standout dishes. It is a refuge from the chaos of Havana.
While filming an upcoming episode of "Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown" in Cuba, I invited Bourdain and the crew to dinner at La Guarida, where there was plenty of wine, rum, and great food. Among the dishes, the suckling pig and smoked marlin tacos were the stars.
A Home Away From Home
I recommend renting an apartment or house from Cubans. Not only will your money help support the island's growing class of small entrepreneurs, but you will also experience genuine Cuban hospitality.
Goods and Crafts
Clandestina (Calle Villegas 403, e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Old Havana) sells T-shirts designed by Cuban graphic artists, with playful and often irreverent messages. Their "Actually, I'm in Havana" shirt captures just how explosive travel to this city can be.
