Where the sky ends, a giant lies sleeping, stretched out along a mountain ridge that looks over the Mediterranean Sea.
At least, that is how it appears from the old harbor of Kas on Turkey's southern coast. According to legend, a female giant lives above the water on the island of Meis, known in Greek as Kastellorizo. If the sea ever touches them both at the same moment, they will wake and fall in love with each other.
It is a romantic tale for this seaside town, which stayed relatively unknown to outsiders until the early 1980s, when suntanned sailors began mooring their yachts in the port to stock up on supplies.
Partner links: booking through them supports the blog at no extra cost to you.
Tourists from Europe and the Antipodes soon followed.
In between, sons of wealthy Istanbul families made Kas (the word means "eyebrow" in Turkish) their home, bringing with them a love of music, good coffee and nature.
Thanks to its rugged geography and the lack of a nearby airport, Kas has kept the charm of a small fishing village. Even so, it offers plenty to do, whether you are a sun worshipper, a foodie, or someone who wants to leap off a mountain and go paragliding.
As everywhere in Turkey, Kas is steeped in history. The homeland of many dynasties and peoples, it was originally founded as a trading port famed for high-quality cedar and sea sponges, and rose to prominence in the era of the Lycians, who lived here before the Greek empire.
Hittite texts written before 1200 BC call this area the lands of Lukka, and the ancient Greeks knew it as Antiphellos.
In the second century BC, during the Roman period, the Lycians created the Lycian League, the first democratic union in history, made up of elected representatives. They believed the afterlife was no less important than this one, so they built stone sarcophagi shaped like houses for their dead.
A Town of Tombs
Modern Kas is still full of tombs, standing at crossroads, along pedestrian streets and scattered across the surrounding landscape.
That makes it easy to step into history without much effort, but it still helps to know your way around. The street running from the bus station to the mosque, the town square of Meydan (Cumhuriyet Meydan) and the port is Ataturk Boulevard (Ataturk Bulvari).
At the bottom, turn west and follow the Old Hospital Road to the open-air theater from the first century BC Hellenistic period. It is a favorite spot for people who practice yoga, while music lovers enjoy free concerts here.
The limestone tiers face the sea, which makes this the perfect place to sit and dream, especially at sunset.
Continue on toward Cukurbag Yarimadasi, also known as the peninsula, but keep in mind that the round trip is almost seven miles. Serious hikers can walk part of the Lycian Way all the way to the Sleeping Giant, where they will see two ancient tombs and take in an incredible view.
An even better and certainly far simpler way to enjoy these views is a tandem paragliding flight down over Kas from the nearby Mount Assas.
On the way into town, you can look at one of the two remaining water cisterns out of the many built during the Hellenistic and Roman periods. That is because it sits beneath a bar.
In truth, most people come here for the sea, and it is no exaggeration to say that the water takes on every shade of blue as the sun moves overhead throughout the day.
Some guesthouses and hotels have their own access to the water, but there are also plenty of other options for those who love to sunbathe and swim.
Dreamy Beaches
At Kucuk Cakil beach, a tiny sandy patch east of the main square, restaurants with wooden decks hug the rocks, shaded by leafy trees. It is the ideal place to do nothing at all, apart from the occasional dip into the cool water.
About 30 years ago, local fishermen began topping up their income by ferrying people to Limanagzi. Back then they would cast their lines and grill the catch beside the area's only home.
These days, small boats regularly carry visitors to the two gorgeous beaches of Limanagzi, both fully equipped. History buffs should get off at the second one, where you can follow a path to Lycian tombs set into a dramatic cliff.
For a change of scene, but with the same beautiful sea, walk over to Buyuk Cakil beach or hop on a minibus to Kaputas. Or try a day trip out on the water. The standard tours are simply about dropping anchor to view the underwater city, swimming into a pirate cave and exploring an ancient fortress. A tasty barbecue lunch is included in the price.
Kas also offers diving, gulet cruises (on a traditional wooden boat) and even the chance to head abroad. After all, Meis is only about 3.5 nautical miles away.
Greeks come over from the island on Fridays, when villagers from the hills above Kas bring their produce to sell at the markets just behind the bus station. Leave room in your luggage for a jar (or maybe two) of the local honey. It is especially good thanks to the high-altitude pine forests.
A Delicious Place
Kas is a paradise for food lovers, offering everything from traditional grilled meats, pide and seafood meze to plant-based menus, vegan pastries and third-wave coffee.
There are Turkish taverns (meyhane) tucked into walled courtyards, romantic garden restaurants with sea views, stylish minimalist cafes serving a new take on old favorites, and cheerful family restaurants dishing up good home cooking.
The serious eating happens at night, and the evenings begin and end at Cumhuriyet Meydan, where a statue stands of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey.
