A thriving metropolis on the island of Taiwan, Taipei sits in a basin ringed by mountains dotted with hot springs, yet it's the urban attractions that draw the most attention in this capital of roughly 7 million people across the metro area.
The mighty Taipei 101 (standing 1,670 feet tall, the third-tallest structure in the world) rises above the city center like a giant stalk of bamboo.
Upscale shopping malls, multi-story electronics stores and eateries that blend the modern with the traditional are linked by a subway system regularly ranked the best in the world. Taipei is convenience itself, boasting the highest number of 7-Eleven stores per capita anywhere on the planet.
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Once the sun sets, the city's night markets become a paradise for snack lovers, and the clubs keep going until the subway reopens the next morning. How long the best of Taipei will stay virtually free of tourists is anyone's guess, but for the foreseeable future the city looks like a destination travelers can enjoy almost entirely to themselves.
Hotels
Luxury
W Taipei
Having picked up 11 awards in its first 10 months of operation, including a spot on Marie Claire China's list of the 15 sexiest places on Earth, the W has already earned its reputation as the finest of Taipei's luxury hotels.
Futuristic and sleek, the interior of W Taipei feels like a Lady Gaga music video; perhaps that's why the singer insisted on staying here during her recent visit. There are eight room types to choose from, with names like Fabulous and Extreme Wow. They differ significantly in style and amenities.
Grand Hotel
If you love staying somewhere iconic, the Taipei Grand Hotel is a must. Commissioned by Chiang Kai-shek and seeming to float on the slopes of Yuan Shan mountain, the Grand is a majestic expression of classical Chinese art fused with Western building principles.
The Grand Hotel is touristy and steeped in history, but the rooms are showing their age, so don't expect the interior to be as "grand" as the exterior. Amenities include a golf course, year-round pools and no fewer than eight restaurants.
Mid-range
Dandy Hotel
Rooms with a view are worth the small extra charge, even on foggy days. From complimentary drinks and snacks in the lobby to seasonal themed decorations that complement the soft, minimalist decor, this boutique hotel sweats the small stuff.
But what sets the Dandy Hotel apart from others in the same price range are the views over Da-An Park; they call to mind the views of New York's Central Park. Rooms with a view are worth the small premium, but you'll need to book well ahead, as there are only two per floor.
Budget
Homey Hostel
Taiwanese brother and sister Josh and Kelly make guests feel right at home in this great-value place to stay.
According to the siblings, their motivation for opening the hostel was to make friends, so you'll often find them hanging out in the common area chatting with guests. There's a small kitchen, a shared computer, free coffee and tea, plus luggage storage.
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Restaurants
Fireweeds
After the success of Qingtian 76, Golden Seeds, the organization devoted to restoring Japanese-era houses in Taipei City, has just opened its second flagship restaurant. Set in an 80-year-old wooden house, Fireweeds serves creative Japanese-Taiwanese dishes.
Over dinner you might spot sections of the original bamboo and mud walls sealed behind glass. The spicy salmon sashimi is superb, as is the barbecued cherry tomato wrapped in bacon. The Fireweeds lemon beer is a local legend. Proceeds go toward preserving Taipei's historic buildings.
Pin Xian
Loud, atmospheric and 100% Taiwanese, no visit to Taipei is complete without an evening of feasting and drinking at a kuai chao (quick stir-fry joint). Pin Xian is Taipei's top pick for this local tradition.
Kuai chao are low-table establishments specializing in cheap, tasty local food, with beer served by girls in short skirts. Pin Xian is so popular that walls have been knocked down to connect three separate shops.
Grab your rice, stash your empty beer bottles in the crates provided, and be sure to try at least one of the following dishes: fried squid, kung pao chicken, black pepper tofu and oysters, or anything with the words "three cups" in the name, which means it was cooked in a magical combination of soy sauce, rice wine and sesame oil.
Flavors
Refined Swedish cuisine in Taipei City? It might come as a surprise, but Flavors lives up to its name. Whatever you order, it's complex, finely tuned and worth savoring.
Chef Ola's personal recommendations include the sous vide lamb, marinated in red wine for three days. The smoked salmon literally melts in your mouth. Every dish is made from scratch and carries its own story, which you'll get if you ask. Small, cozy and romantic, the place has only a handful of tables, which means a reservation is a must at this top Taipei spot.
Tripod King
Named after the traditional three-legged pots in which dishes are simmered, Tripod King is regularly cited by locals as Taipei's best hot pot. Unlike the standard hot pot places around Taipei, this one doesn't do "all you can eat," and it doesn't have 12-plus ice cream flavors.
The focus is on quality over quantity. Excellent meat and handmade dumplings simmer at your table in a classic, spicy broth. The cheesy crab is served in the shell. Don't even think about showing up during peak hours without a reservation.
Shanghai Pavilion
The Pavilion's main dining area offers views stretching from the mountains to Taipei 101.
With a guest list that has included former US President Bill Clinton, the Far Eastern hotel's Shanghai Pavilion is an elegant space boasting a panoramic view from the 39th floor that may well be the best in Taipei.
With 40 years of experience in the hotel's restaurants, chef Tai Chun-Lin is known for Shanghai cuisine with Taiwanese touches, including signature dishes such as drunken chicken and braised stone lobster. The dress code is smart casual, and those in the know request a table by the window.
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Nightlife
Fourplay
If there are rules for mixing drinks, cocktail masters Allen and Frankie break them every night. Picture a strawberry-shisha-scented martini, three-layer shots served with helium, and bubbling potions made with dry ice. There's no drink menu; just tell the guys what flavors you like and they'll mix something special.
But the real appeal of Fourplay lies in its inventive use of local spirits, including gaoliang (distilled rice liquor), xiaomi jiu (indigenous millet wine) and Chinese medicinal herbs.
Drinks don't get more Taiwanese than the Betel Nut, in which the addictive areca nut (yes, the very one that dyes local smiles red) is blended with lime and mint.
Club Myst
For an extravagant night out, the Xin Yi district's trendy new dance club is Myst. Expect pole dancers, a waterfall over a huge, packed dance floor and international DJs. But the jewel in Myst's crown is the stunning city view, with Taipei 101 front and center, practically across the street.
If you forgot to book a private booth on Myst's breathtaking open-air terrace, you can still take in Taipei's best views through the giant windows in the men's and women's restrooms.
Club Myst, 9/F, No. 12, Songshou Road (Taipei City Hall MRT station) 松壽路12號9樓; +886 2 7737 9997
346 Taiwan Beer Bar
Taiwan Beer is the name, and Taiwan Beer is what you'll get at this rustic brewery pub. A pint brewed the day you buy it will set you back just NT$90 ($3). Or bring a friend and pay NT$550 ($19) for a 3.5-liter keg.
There's also a menu of dishes prepared (you guessed it) with Taiwan Beer. Friday and Saturday nights can get pretty rowdy, with crowds of friendly, tipsy Taiwanese. Access is through the factory's main entrance.
Carnegie's
If you're not a fan of the music at Carnegie's, there's other entertainment on offer. For 11 years, Carnegie's has been the place to dance on the bar. That exhibitionist urge is encouraged by free champagne for the ladies every Wednesday, a 600-minute happy hour every day and a shots list with 367 options (the longest in Asia, the bar claims).
Carnegie's is also famous for its menu. Huge brunches, classic pub grub and authentic Indian cuisine will exceed the expectations of anyone bracing for standard fried bar food. Carnegie's also has one of the best terraces in Taipei. Open from 11 a.m.
Shopping/Sights
Technopia
Left your iPhone charger at home? Don't panic. Head to NOVA, right across the street from Taipei Main Station. Even locals get lost in Taipei's network of underground malls, so find one of the large maps posted throughout and make your way to Exit Z4.
Once you're out on the street, do a 180-degree turn and you'll be facing NOVA. There you'll find every laptop, phone, printer, cord, cable, accessory and gadget known to the tech-addicted. A few blocks behind NOVA, dozens of camera shops are clustered along Hankou and Bo Ai streets.
NOVA Electronics Center and Camera Street, 2 Guanqian St. (館前路二號); Taipei Main MRT station; +886 2 2381 4833
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall
After a few years as Taiwan's National Democracy Memorial Hall, it was renamed back to the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. The Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall is the first stop on most of the best Taipei itineraries, and for good reason.
This striking white monument with its distinctive blue octagonal roof is Taipei's largest cultural landmark. The museum below holds some fine Kuomintang party propaganda.
On either side of the vast plaza you'll find yourself in the shadow of the twin classical Chinese National Theater and National Concert Hall. The best vantage point to take it all in is the Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness on the western side.
Miramar Entertainment Park
Taipei City is full of upscale shopping malls, but if you have to pick just one, make it Miramar. Nowhere else can you take a break from browsing the brand-name shops by riding a 70-meter Ferris wheel with views stretching to Taipei 101 and Yangming Mountain. The mall also has an IMAX cinema with the largest commercial screens in Asia.
Maokong Gondola
Opened in 2007 and then closed due to typhoon damage, the Maokong Gondola is up and running again and delivers some of the best views in Taipei.
Go on a weekday and, using your MRT card to skip the ticket line, queue up for the Crystal Cabins, which are gondolas with glass floors at the same price as the regular ones. Don't rush straight to the last stop. First, get off at Zhinan Temple station to see a modern Buddhist temple with breathtaking views.
From Maokong station you can pass the time at a traditional tea shop overlooking the terraced fields of green tea, or set off on a hike to temples with waterfalls.
Markets
Taipei is famous throughout Asia for its unique night markets. Every Taipei resident has a favorite. Here are ours, with a few daytime options.
Danshui
"Vegetarianism" may not be an excuse, but "intolerance of stench" might be. This is the best place to try Taiwan's most infamous snack, stinky tofu. The barbecued versions made here are easier on the nose than the sharper boiled and deep-fried varieties available elsewhere.
The Danshui waterfront is also great for a daytime or evening stroll. Other market specialties include iron eggs, deep-fried ice cream and barbecued whole cuttlefish.
Danshui, accessed from Danshui MRT station; from late morning until late at night
Raohe Night Market
This place doesn't always move at such a pace. Visit Raohe Night Market to pair your snack hunting with a visit to an 18th-century temple. The Ciyou Matsu Temple sits at the eastern end of the market. Matsu is the goddess of fishermen and the sea, and this temple dedicated to her is one of the oldest in Taipei.
The crowds here are smaller than at other night markets.
Jianguo Jade and Flower Markets
A great spot for rainy weekends, the jade and flower markets offer full cover beneath a kilometer-long stretch of elevated highway. With plenty of photo opportunities, these two markets seem to go on forever.
A third, lesser-known market featuring traditional arts and crafts sits at the southern end of the promenade.
Shilin Night Market
If you'll settle for nothing less than the biggest, liveliest and grandest of all open-air shopping experiences, head straight for Shilin Night Market. Arriving about an hour before sunset will let you snap the best photos of the stalls being set up for the evening.
Any later, and the crowds get so overwhelming that you may simply be swept along in the forward-pushing mass and lost forever in the maze of alleys and lanes. Escalators in the covered area lead down to an underground, air-conditioned food court. Shilin is known for creative snack innovations alongside Taiwanese classics such as oyster omelets, fried chicken steaks and pearl milk tea.
