The dinar cannot leave the country, taxi meters need insisting on, and entry rules have a voucher twist. The practical rules of Tunisia, best sorted before you land.

Tunisian food is genuinely fiery: harissa replaces ketchup here. Six dishes you have to try, with honest pointers on where Tunisians themselves go for them.

Six places in Tunisia worth leaving the sun lounger for: from the ruins of Carthage to the underground homes of Matmata and a night in the Sahara. With a one-week route.