Why you cannot buy dirhams in advance, how to haggle from a third of the price, what separates a petit taxi from a grand, and the five scams waiting for tourists: a no-romance guide to Morocco.

Why couscous is a Friday ritual, why tea gets poured from half a meter up, and what to order at the Jemaa el-Fnaa stalls: a practical guide to Moroccan food with prices and etiquette.

Jemaa el-Fnaa, nine thousand lanes of Fes, blue Chefchaouen and a night in the Sahara dunes: how to link them into one route, how many days you really need and when Morocco does not turn into an oven.