Left-hand driving, a divided island and visa-free entry on biometric passports. A practical Cyprus guide: car hire, buses, seasons and the real risks.

A 20-plate meze, a cheese that refuses to melt and lamb slow-baked for half a day. A practical guide to Cypriot food with prices and honest-taverna markers.

Two-thousand-year-old mosaics, a capital sliced by a UN buffer zone, snow on a palm-tree island and flamingos by the airport: how to get more out of Cyprus than a sunbed and turquoise water.