A country where a bank card replaced transport tickets, and the priciest tourist mistake is sleeping in Amsterdam. Money, trains and seasons without illusions.

Herring eaten by the tail, hot food from a FEBO wall and cheese that crunches with crystals. Six things to eat on Dutch streets rather than in restaurants.

A country where everything is an hour away by train: windmills, tulips, a village with no roads and Europe's boldest architecture. Seven places mapped onto one week.

Canals, the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh and Anne Frank without the queues: what to book ahead, where to walk and when to go for the tulips.