# Bouncing Along With One of Hong Kong's Last Bamboo Noodle Masters > Discover the ancient craft of jook-sing bamboo noodles, kept alive by just a handful of Hong Kong masters who carry on a rare culinary tradition. - URL: https://langandtrip.com.ua/en/article/przhky-s-odnym-yz-poslednykh-honkonhskykh-masterov-po-pryhotovlenyiu-bambukovoi-lapshy/ - Language: en - Published: 2025-11-15 - Categories: Culture, Historic Sites, Leisure, Restaurants, China, Food & Drinks --- Looking almost as if he is climbing onto a seesaw, Hong Kong noodle master Ken Li straddles a long bamboo pole that hangs off the end of a heavy wooden table. The opposite end of the bamboo is fastened to a giant rubber band that is chained to the wall. On the table sits a fresh batch of dough, which will soon be kneaded by the bamboo as Li bounces up and down, his feet planted on a low bench. It is all part of the process needed to make jook-sing noodles, an increasingly rare dish here. Only a handful of noodle masters still know the skill. "These days, only about 10 jook-sing noodle masters are left in Hong Kong," says Fei Wong, the third-generation owner of Wong Chi Kei. Originally founded in Macau in 1946, it is one of the most popular noodle spots in Hong Kong. It is also one of the few remaining noodle shops that still make their own jook-sing noodles. Across its three outlets in Hong Kong and Macau, Wong Chi Kei sells around 2,000 bowls of noodles a day. ## What makes jook-sing noodles so special? Jook-sing noodles, or bamboo noodles, originated in China's Canton region. They are also a key, though often overlooked, part of wonton noodles, one of Hong Kong's most iconic dishes. "Jook-sing noodles are made with eggs, flour and a small amount of lye water," says noodle master Li, the executive chef of Wong Chi Kei and Wong's cousin. "What makes them special is the use of the bamboo pole. Pressing the dough this way develops the gluten, which gives the noodles a fresh, springy texture," says Li, who has been making noodles for more than two decades. All of Wong Chi Kei's noodles are now made in Macau, but the Causeway Bay branch in Hong Kong keeps a noodle room reserved for occasional workshops and demonstrations. Today, Li says, most of the noodles you will find in Hong Kong's markets are made entirely by machine and never go through the bamboo kneading process. "They rely on adding a lot of lye water to make the noodles al dente, and you can smell it in them," he adds. "We use our hands and bamboo poles to make the noodles. You can taste the difference between the two." Why bamboo? This highly versatile plant is prized for its flexibility and strength. That makes it the perfect tool for transferring the huge amount of force needed to do the kneading. The current pole at the Wong Chi Kei shop in Causeway Bay has been in use for more than a decade. The wooden table is custom-built and nailed to the floor. After years of bamboo pounding, a small dip has formed on its surface. ## Just keep bouncing "The biggest challenge in preserving a traditional craft is the lack of talent in the market," says Wong. "The monotonous and physically demanding nature of the work has put many young people off entering the trade, and the Chinese culinary trade in general. "My uncle, who is a bridge engineer, is studying the physics and mechanics of jook-sing noodles, so hopefully we can come up with a formula for a machine that can mimic the traditional bamboo pressing." But there are things machines cannot replace. Li pauses his bouncing and feels the dough. "You have to feel it yourself," he says. "If the dough isn't good enough, we need to keep bouncing on it until it's ready." He folds the flattened dough, returns to his starting position and begins bouncing on the bamboo pole once again. "The more you practice, the more you'll know how to make the noodles, depending on the humidity and the weather. No one can teach you this, you have to learn and understand it yourself. It took me about six or seven years to master the skill." Weight is an advantage in this traditional craft. "You need to use less energy if you're heavier," says Wong. "But my grandfather (the founder) weighed only 120 pounds. When he was on the bamboo, he had to jump really high on one leg. It looked like he was doing kung fu." ![](https://test.langandtrip.com.ua/wp-content/uploads/de_import_uploads/june-article-image-174-1-2025.jpg) Once the dough is ready, it goes into a machine to be flattened further and cut into thin noodles. As a teenager, Wong spent his summers learning to make jook-sing noodles, a family tradition. "I performed making jook-sing noodles at the Causeway Bay branch when I first came back to the family business," says Wong. "It soon gave me a pain in the backside, I was out of shape." ## Carrying on the legacy Wong, who runs the company's business development, is always looking for ways to modernize the company. For instance, Wong Chi Kei has started selling dried jook-sing noodles, named Yea Yea Noodles (or Grandpa's Noodles in translation), as souvenirs and gifts in recent years. The hope is that the modern design will draw in and grow the jook-sing noodle customer base. "Wong Chi Kei has fed three generations of people, that means a lot to me," says Wong. "My grandfather spent decades perfecting the noodles. I want to carry on his legacy and keep improving them. In Japan, there are family businesses that have run for as many as eight generations, that's 300 years of history. "It's a challenge to build a business that lasts for generations, but if we can build that kind of history, it will become a valuable legacy for the food and restaurant industry." Wong Chi Kei, Way On Commercial Building, 500 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay; open daily from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.