# Unicum: The Unusual Story of Hungary's National Drink

> Discover the story of Unicum, Hungary's national drink that no Budapest bar can do without. Find out why it fascinates travelers.

- URL: https://langandtrip.com.ua/en/article/natsionalnoho-napoyu-uhorshchyny/
- Language: en
- Published: 2023-08-08
- Categories: Culture, Historic Sites, Leisure, Restaurants, Hungary, Food & Drinks

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Wherever you find yourself (in a humble kocsma packed with regulars nursing their beers, in a sleek cocktail hideaway, or in one of Budapest's quirky ruin pubs crammed with tourists), the drinking scene of the Hungarian capital shares one constant.

Countless times over the course of a night, the bartender reaches for the same distinctive bottle with its rounded neck.

The amber liquid inside is called Unicum, and with roots stretching back to the late 18th century, it is one of Hungary's most cherished national drinks.

Like Hungarians' other beloved tipple, the fruit brandy Palinka, Unicum is mostly sipped as an aperitif or digestif in the form of a shot.

Produced by the Budapest company Zwack, it is a herbal liqueur made from a secret blend of more than 40 herbs and spices, aged in oak.

Less aggressive than Fernet but muskier than Jagermeister, the thick, bittersweet Unicum, with its subtle piney notes of eucalyptus, is genuinely invigorating, and its flavor, according to Unicum brand representative Csaba Gulyas, only grows more pleasant with every sip.

"It's a bittersweet potion that isn't easy to enjoy the first time, but then you get past that barrier, and it becomes your beloved," says Gulyas.

## Royal Origins

The story of how Unicum came to be is equally fairy-tale and turbulent.

Its distinctive bottle bears a golden cross standing out against a red background, the first hint that this drink has medicinal roots.

It all began in 1790, when the Habsburg ruler Joseph II, Holy Roman Emperor, suffered a bout of indigestion, and Dr. Zwack, the royal physician of the imperial court, prepared a herbal remedy for him.

After drinking it, Joseph II reportedly exclaimed: "Dr. Zwack, this is a unique elixir!"

The "unique" elixir went on to gain great popularity, and in 1840 the Zwack company was founded by Jozsef Zwack, an enterprising descendant of the far-sighted doctor.

By 1895, the Zwack company was producing over 200 liqueurs and spirits, exporting them from a distillery that is still operating to this day.

Different generations of the Zwack family have always led the business, with two of its most remarkable figures being brothers Bela and Janos, who were at the helm during Zwack's most difficult years.

The 1930s ushered in an era of upheaval linked to the Great Depression and Prohibition in the United States, which led to a drop in demand for Zwack's products.

During the Second World War the factory was destroyed, and shortly afterward communism forced the company to be nationalized. The Zwacks, however, devised a plan, creating a fake recipe for the communists to use.

Janos found refuge in the United States, while Bela stayed at the distillery until the mid-1950s, when he moved to Italy and once again began tinkering with the original Unicum.

After the fall of communism in 1989, the Zwacks bought their company back, the genuine, heady Unicum recipe was reinstated, and Janos's son Peter revived the name both at home and abroad.

"Everyone has their own personal story with Unicum. It has a spiritual meaning, it is timeless, it has lived through our history," Gulyas explains.

"I think I would love Unicum even if I knew nothing about its heritage, but once you get the full picture, wow," says Des O'Connell, the bar consultant who oversees all the drinks programs for Budapest's BrodyLand portfolio, including the events hub Brody Studios.

"Unicum is the story of Hungary, politically and socially, from the days of the Habsburg Empire right up to the present. That, of course, earns it a special place in the hearts and stomachs of most Hungarians."

## A Symbol of Unity

![A bottle of Unicum with its distinctive rounded neck and golden cross](/storage/image/prev/Vengriy-1-NacDrink-1024x682.jpg)

On the shelves of Budapest's bars, Unicum can be found in the company of friends and family, a sign that Hungarians place great value on friendly get-togethers over food.

Ferenc Varsanyi, a partner in the cozy barbershop turned cocktail spot Hotsy Totsy, adds that "this drink brings families together." Hungarians don't drink Unicum only on special occasions. It is a symbol of unity.

More often than not, it is enjoyed as a room-temperature shot, but Varsanyi prefers to drink it from a tasting glass, "letting it rest a little to bring out the depth of flavor and its immense sharpness."

He also prefers to drink it chilled, straight from the freezer, but says it is especially good in the heat when served over ice.

O'Connell, on the other hand, recommends drinking Unicum alongside a pilsner.

Because of its intensity, Unicum is "not the most obvious of cocktail ingredients," notes O'Connell, who uses it sparingly, adding a spoonful or two to drinks that need a little more texture.

Likewise, Varsanyi sometimes uses it as a bolder alternative to Campari or adds it to hot cocktails.

Home bartenders, however, should keep an eye on two cocktail-friendly variations of Unicum: Szilva and Riserva.

The first is made by macerating plums in barrels that once held Unicum; the second is aged twice, the second time in barrels that previously held the prized Hungarian sweet wine Tokaji Aszu.

"The bitter notes soften, replaced by more fruity and oaky flavors," O'Connell notes.

For example, the Kollazs bar at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel Budapest offers Puszta Reloaded, a riff on a traditional Hungarian cocktail made with Tokaji wine, apricot brandy, and herbal liqueur.

The refreshing sweet-and-sour drink combines Unicum Riserva and grape juice.

"We recommend this drink to our guests who would like to get to know Hungary through its classic flavors," says bartender Attila Farmasi.

While Unicum can be appreciated in just about any Budapest bar, perhaps the most fitting backdrop is at its historic distillery, set near the Danube in the moody 9th district.

With advance notice for the curious, you can book a tour through the maze of oak barrels and peek into a charming museum filled with vintage photographs, posters, and curiosities, including an especially striking collection of 17,000 mini bottles.
